A Not-so-Wonderful Welcome Home

Our stop-over in Auckland proved a trial, over 4 hours long and with the announcement that for some strange reason which didn't make any sense at all, 100 pieces of luggage were offloaded from the plane to be sent on a later flight - of course when we arrived in Brisbane we discovered that ours was amongst those left behind. Next came a taxi ride through drenching rain with a cabbie who spoke an unidentifiable language and needed directions to get us to our car which we had left with Max's parents.

It made us laugh to think that in all our travels through Antarctica, Argentina, Brazil, Chile and Peru we didn't have one hiccup with luggage or taxi's in places that we had read so many stories of delays and rip-offs.

But...

It was lovely to see Len and Dulcie looking so well and 24 hours after leaving our hotel in Santiago we walked through our front door to discover a beautiful card and a bunch of flowers on the table from Pauline and Graeme.

there is no place like home.

P.S.  our luggage arrived about 13 hours later!

A Wonderful Last Day in South America

 Our last day was spent in Santiago Chile with the first people we met on our holiday. Carolina and Zoltan live here and took us to lunch at a beautiful restaurant set in parklands just out of the city.

We talked and laughed and reminisced - ate good food and of course drank great wine and my last Pisco Sour.

We hope to meet again, maybe in New Zealand.

A Siesta, and off to the airport for our flight home.

Zoltan and Carolina in Torres del Paine NP

Machu Picchu

A thousand photographs, ten thousand words cannot explain this citadel in the majestic Andes mountains.  All I can write about is our/my experience...

Our experience was overwhelming.  We saw it in all it´s moods, bright sunshine, mist, clouds and even a thunderstorm.  Each change in the weather brought it´s own unique quality to the ruins and the mountains. We walked, we sat and pondered, we marvelled and wondered, we watched hundreds of people queue to enter at 5.30am and thousands arrive during the day and spread to all corners,  yet there were times when you found yourself completely isolated and alone.  Those times of solitude and peace allowed your mind to attempt to absorb what your senses were conveying... impossible really.

I am so glad we went there for a couple of days.  The first day you are gob-smacked, and we had a wonderful tour from Luz, our guide.  She told the stories and revealed some of the knowledge of this lost empire.  The second day we could wander and discover at our liesure.

What was amazing to me is that everyone reacted in very similar ways - people from all over the world, all ages, photographing first, talking next and then a quietness overtook them as they finally realised where they were and the power of the mountains and what had been accomplished by the Inca´s began to soak in.

The Hyram Bingham Train

An Orient Express service to Machu Picchu... need I say any more?  No?  Well you know me...

The train was immaculate, the service impecccable, the decor straight out of an Agatha Christie novel ... we were seated at our table looking down on the Urubamba River rushing it´s way toward the mountains, offered a champagne and the train gently rolled out of the station. I won´t bore you with details of the fabulous meal or the spectacular scenery, suffice to say we arrived on time after a splendid journey.

The return trip was something else.  David and Jill (from Scotland, whom we had met the previous day at Macchu Pichu) were seated right near us, and the bantering and fun began.  We adjourned to the bar/observation car for a drink where a guitarist and a singer, who was also drumming on a large hollow box, were providing the entertainment.  It wasn´t long before we were the entertainment.  David was given the maracas, someone else a tambourine, I was given a hollow box with a lid and a stick (YES I had to do two things at once!) and Max was given the teeth... yep, the jawbone of an ass to be precise, the jaw bone with teeth... which he was shown how to play.  We beat the rhythm while the man sang Elvis Presley songs in Spanish and a few well known Spanish songs  (Solero, La Bamba)  encouraging us to sing along.

Surreal, in Peru, in a luxury train, in the Andes Mountains, surrounded by the ancient world of the Inca, singing Jail House Rock in Spanish while plaing a wooden box with lid and stick and the jawbone from a donkey.

Cusco Peru

Wonderful.
The world is indeed an amazing place when you are sleeping in a monastery built in 1692 on foundations of Inca stone buildings, walking ancient cobblestone streets with a procession of dancing young people leading an icon of the Virgin Mary, bartering with a shop keeper who saw you coming from miles away in the age old tradition of ripping off tourists, visiting a church with gold encrusted picture frames, some made from melted down Inca gold, and getting a smile from a young street boy who recognised you from 4 days ago when you took his photo (for a dollar of course) when he posed with Pablo Picasso, his llama.

Smile!  Maybe the llama speaks English too.

Argentina

Just a quick note again, life is hectic when you are on holidays.  Iguassu was a wonderful experience ... and bizarre going from ice and snow to tropical heat, jungle, thousands of butterflies and colourful macaws.

We have just completed a guided tour of Buenos Aries, well a small part.  Statues and buildings magnificent, poverty and wealth abounds often on opposite corners of the street and the Tango Show we went to last night was out of this world... in fact it was set in the 1940`s and 50`s and the costumes and music were as fantastic as the dancing was fast, furious and very sexy.

On to Cuzco tomorrow, maybe then I will have time to write more about his exciting holiday and share some of the thousands of photos.

Iguassu Falls Brazil

Antarctic Cruise Map

Thought this may be of interest to show exactly where our cruise went in Antarctica.

Day 9, 10 and 11 - Drake Passage; Cape Horn and Beagle Channel

Saturday, 25 December 2010
Drake Passage
Position at 1000 hours: Lat. 60° 09’S, Long. 63° 25’W Speed: 9.7 knots Course: 342° Barometer: 973.3 hPa falling  Wind: 10 knots N Air temperature: 3° C Sea temperature: 2° C

The first view of Antarctica is always an iceberg. It may be a monolith hovering on the horizon, a barely discernable spectre looming out of the mist, or perhaps a sun-spangled, dazzling icon marking the gateway to this new world. It will undoubtedly be icebergs that leave the most lasting impressions on the imagination. —Mark Jones, Wild Ice 

Sunday, 26 December 2010 
Drake Passage; Cape Horn

Position at 1600 hours: Lat. 55° 50’S, Long. 66° 25’W Speed: 11.7 knots Course: 360° Barometer: 982.6 hPa  WIND: Calm Air temperature: 10° C Sea temperature: 6.9° C

Antarctica left a restless longing in my heart beckoning towards an incomprehensible perfection forever beyond the reach of mortal man. Its overwhelming beauty touches one so deeply that it is like a wound.
—Edwin Mickleburgh, Beyond the Frozen Sea 

Many people were discussing post-voyage plans over breakfast, looking to see if they’d meet up with anyone as their journeys continue to other parts of South America.  A pre-arrival briefing led by Maggie and Judd let us all know what to do with our luggage, passports, customs control, disembarkation, tipping and farewells. Into the bar, and we pay our ship accounts with Terry and give Maggie our email address so we can all stay in touch post voyage and receive the ship’s log which people have contributed to throughout the voyage.

A crowd gathered on the bridge as we sighted Cape Horn in the distance and slowly approached to 12 nautical miles out from land before the Chileans had cause to call and see what we were up to. Changing course to starboard, we headed towards the Beagle Channel. 

We settled in the lecture room for a slideshow of people’s favourite photos from the trip. Each passenger was asked to contribute 3 of their favourite pics, and a few cmpuet savvy and creative folk put them together in a movie presentation. It was great to review the trip and see what everyone else saw, often different from your own perspective and experiences.  If you have 10 minutes to spare please watch it.

Following dinner we all met in the bar to reminisce about our favourite parts of the trip. We heard from our fellow travellers of their experiences.  It is hard to believe the trip is almost over, but upon reflection, we managed to see and do a lot of different things. Shore landings, iceberg cruises, historic sites, wildlife, whale-watching, and of course eating were enjoyed by all!! 


It has been a bit of a whirlwind and I don’t think it has sunk in yet that we’ve been to Antarctica – the great white continent. Our dreams to experience this cold, snowy wonderland now fulfilled, some are at a loss as to how to top this adventure. Others now have a taste for Antarctica and contemplate the ways in which they can return.

We finished off the last full day of the trip with friends, memories, drinks and a picturesque sunset. What an experience Antarctica has been!

Monday, 27 December 2010
Beagle Channel; Ushuaia
Position: Lat. 58° 48’ S, Long. 68° 18’ W Speed: n/a Course: n/a Barometer: 991.9 hPa
Wind: 5 knots Air temperature: 8° C Sea temperature: 7.7° C

A Journey is a person in itself, no two are alike, and all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us... —John Steinbeck 

We pulled up alongside the wharf just after 7.00 a.m. this morning after a nice smooth cruise through the Beagle Channel. Farewells and hugs and a sadness that I may never return to this most unique and excitingly beautiful place.  The ship travelled a distance travelled of 1,721.6 nautical miles but treasured memories of Antarctica will always be only a few seconds away.

Antarctica - Day 8 - Whalers Bay, Deception I.

Friday, 24 December 2010
Position (lunchtime): 62° 57’S, Long. 60° 40’W Speed: 6 knots Course: 229° Barometer: 979.9 hPa
Wind: 11 knots Air temperature: 4°C Sea temperature: 1.2°C

And yet, there is only one great thing, the only thing, to see in huts and on journeys: the great day that dawns, and the light that fills the world. —Inuit Poem

We weren’t quite up by 5.50 when Judd came on the PA to wish us a good morning and tell us that we were going to be passing into the caldera mouth of Deception Island in 10 minutes. This is also known as Neptune’s Bellows; luckily we have reached it on a good day!

We reached the flydeck just as the ship was coming past the first jagged cliffs of the entrance. It’s a curious sight coming into the circular lagoon, mists swirling and light snow. Gulls are wheeling round the rocks. As the mist cleared we could see the derelict buildings of Whalers Bay.

We were up on the deck by 7.15, wearing all our layers and the obligatory life jackets and looked out to see Judd is in his Zodiac wearing a Santa hat, Terry has a Santa hat with a reindeer face on it, and Maggie has Christmas dangly earrings and a badge with a flashing light. Christmas has come early to Polar Pioneer.

The island and harbour have been created through volcanic eruptions, the latest in 1969. There is volcanic steam coming from some areas of the beach, and the mist still surrounds us. There are several enormous rusty, circular structures that were used for storing whale oil and a set of boilers for the whaling operations, now home to gulls. At the top of the beach are some dilapidated wooden buildings, partly filled with volcanic ash, one half submerged. The back of the beach has two graves and cairns in tribute to dead whalers.

After everyone had landed, Maggie called us to the round rusty buildings and handed out carol sheets! We stood in the darkness lit just by the light coming in from the doorway and the rust holes in the roof. We did a pretty good job of our singing despite not all of us knowing the hymns, and the acoustics of the whale oil drum were excellent! White Christmas, Silent Night and Oh Come All Ye Faithful probably came out the best. We finished up with Judd bringing Lynnette into the centre of the circle and everyone singing Happy Birthday!

The beach is covered with whaling remains, many whale bones in the sand, wooden boats and burst- open barrels, their wood now fragile. About halfway along the beach we met a Weddell seal, which obligingly posed for us to photograph it. The sun started to come out and the fog lifted. 

Judd and Terry took us back to the ship in the last Zodiac, a little downcast as it is our last landing, but also really looking forward to Christmas lunch! We are having it early today on Christmas Eve as tomorrow we will be right in the middle of the Drake Passage and many people may not feel like lunch.

We dressed up for Christmas and the chefs had decorated the dining rooms and set the tables with crackers and bottles of red and white wine. They had produced a superb Christmas lunch; terrine of red snapper, scallops and smoked salmon with lime coconut dressing, red lettuce and fresh brown bread rolls, followed by turkey, stuffing, pigs in blankets, carrots, broccoli, roast potatoes and gravy. Asko taught us to say Happy Christmas in Finnish. Henri gave Lynnette a birthday card with gentoo penguins on which everyone had signed! Eva is learning about the British and Australian tradition of kissing under mistletoe and is carrying some round with her. There was lots of photograph taking by the expeditioners.

We pulled the crackers and donned our cracker hats. Judd arrived dressed in an impressive Santa suit, complete with boots and beard and an Aurora Expeditions kit bag to enthusiastic cheers from everyone. Everyone got a gift from Santa.

After lunch some went up to the bridge as we were leaving the caldera. The mist was closing in and the view was not as good as the morning. There was a definite contrast in the height of the waves between the protected harbour and the sea outside and lots of white crests.

Dinner, a cold buffet, was not very well attended as it was getting much rougher, and many people stayed in the bar or retreated to their cabins to lie down. Terry came into the bar and strapped everything down. He says the conditions are ‘below average’ as the waves are now coming above deck 4. Up on the bridge, Judd described it as ‘medium’. Sitting on the chairs at the front of the bridge was like riding a bucking bronco; the ship plunged heavily into the waves, huge amounts of spray everywhere. We saw an albatross circling and Cape petrels following the ship. We were trying to estimate the height of the waves, but with the swell and wind-generated ones together, the best we achieved was ‘huge!’

Feliz Natal – Bwon Natale – Urolyk Kerstfeest – Hauskaa Joulua – Joyeax Noël.

Antarctica - Day 7 - Cierva Cove and Mikkelsen Harbour

Position: Lat. 63° 54’S, Long. 60° 47’W Speed: At anchor Course: At anchor Barometer: 977.3 hPa falling  Wind: up to 30 knots! Air temperature: 1°C Sea temperature: 0.4°C

They are extraordinarily like children, these little people of the Antarctic world, either like children, or like old men, full of their own importance and late for dinner, in their black tail- coats and white shirt fronts—and rather portly withal.  —Apsley Cherry-Garrard, The Worst Journey in the World 

Thursday, 23 December 2010 

Several of us can see whales in the distance, flukes visible as they play around.  About three in all, possibly more – humpbacks. A scurry to our cabins to prepare for an excursion to shore. Our Zodiac guides showed us many wonderful sights, firstly a lone penguin on his own special iceberg. Mario said “Whale!”.  The search was on, possibly a minke playing about 200 metres away. We caught up and had a chance to photograph him when he decided to surface. Onward to visit Cierva Cove, where we spotted a Weddell seal having a lovely sleep on the ice. We wandered around amongst icebergs, and just before returning to warmth of the ship, 

Cameras ready and Zodiac ready. We eagerly awaited the 14 brave souls who had decided to take the polar plunge. Each diver demonstrated their own special style as they dived and jumped and slipped into the 1°C icy Antarctic waters... not us... shiver, shiver. They weren't in long and set a record getting from the deck to the sauna room to warm up. Well done!

The outlook was bleak, windy, cold and there was light snow. Suddenly there was a humpback, or two or three; one breeches far above the surface of the water; choreographing the ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from those remaining on the bridge. 

What a great day we have had, and so to bed, cuddle in and enjoy the gentle roll that puts us to sleep.

Antarctica - Day 6 - Cuverville Island; Orne Island; Neko Harbour

Wednesday, 22 December 2010
Position: Lat. 64° 44’S, Long. 62° 38’W Speed: At anchor Course: n/a Barometer: 983.0 hPa
WIND: calm Air temperature: 2°C Sea temperature: 1.4°C

To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing and makes feasts of meat and wine ridiculous. The glacier eats hills and drinks sunbeams. —John Muir 

Today has been an amazing. 

We were a bit disappointed last night that camping was a no-go because of the wet snow, however, we were woken from our sleep this morning not by Judd’s usual rendition of an Antarctic poem but by the news that a pod of orcas was near the ship. Many of us sprang out of bed, and most of us managed to throw on some clothes before heading to the bridge or the foredeck. Around 20 orcas were swimming in front of, alongside and even underneath the ship, so close that when you looked into the water you could see the outlines of their bodies. They stayed with us for ages, seemingly enjoying accompanying us and happy to wait for everyone to make it out of bed to see them. People on the front deck were so close to them that they got wet from their spouting. 

Our zodicas today headed to Cuverville Island and after a short exploration set of for a cruise looking for wildlife, apparently we have a good chance of seeing minke or humback whales but there was great excitement as we watched a leopard see effortlessly launch itself onto and iceberg, wriggle and rol about until it was comfortable, let out a conted (I've got a belly full of penguins' sigh) and fall asleep and begin to snore.  WOW! WOW! WOW! 

That's me, 2nd from the left and Max 2nd from right - thanks for the photo Rene.

The weather began to change – for the better. The clouds cleared, the temperature rose and the sun came out. It was pretty exciting, as I don’t think there’s been that much sun on the trip so far. I have enjoyed the moody overcast weather, and especially the way it makes the icebergs glow with unearthly shades of blue and green, but the sunshine lit up the whole landscape in a completely new way. It was such great conditions that Judd announced another quick shore trip to Orne Island to see some chinstrap penguins. Once we zoomed over there, a chain of humans, looking remarkably penguin-like, trekked up to the top of the hill to see the breeding area of the chinstraps and say ‘Gidday’. 

Another change of clothes once we got back to the ship for a group photo on the foredeck. This time Eva took the costume award for her little black dress, which seemed perfectly appropriate for the sunny afternoon. The Polar Pioneer lifted its anchor and we headed off to Neko Harbour. We travelled there via the Lemaire Channel, which we’d been up the day before, but it was completely different to see it in the sunlight and the day just seemed to get warmer and brighter as the afternoon wore on. Many of us spent the trip on the foredeck enjoying the sun and being completely awestruck by the scenery around us. Icebergs ranging from tiny to massive, nearby mountains looking crystal clear, distant mountains looking ghostlike and dreamy, the sun sparkling. 

Arriving at Neko Harbour. It was an extraordinary cruising in the sun over glassy water down the channel, past icebergs, glaciers towering above us and cracking ominously from time to time. Our group fell silent and often just naturally for a peaceful moment of gliding along in the immensity of it all. It was so sunny that we were quite hot and the sun seemed to make Antarctic white even whiter. 

It was stunning to see a transparent jellyfish emitting electrical 'neon' lights, another highlight for me today. I have seen Orcas, penguins, leopard seal, humpback whale, krill and now this amazing creature.
Back on board for the ship BBQ. The kitchen staff did an amazing job, dishing up chicken, pork, sausages, corn and even a few chili prawns, along with salad and finished off with ice cream. A vat of
mulled wine and plenty of beer meant the party got going with a swing and the dancing started early and went late. Something about the silly hats seemed to bring out a whole different side of people! 

The sun set slowly over the mountains and the light changed from brilliant sunlight to a beautiful Antarctic twilight. Finally the last dancers straggled off the rear deck after 11.00 p.m., threw their hats and wigs back into the fancy dress box and headed for bed. 

Antarctica - Day 5 - Port Lockroy; Lemaire Channel; Pléneau I.

Tuesday, 21 December 2010

Position at 2230 hours: Lat. 64 ̊57’S, Long. 63° 42’W Speed: 9.8 knots Course: 44 ̊ Barometer: 979.9 hPa falling   WIND: Calm Air temperature: 2°C Sea temperature: 0°C

There is only one short link in the food chain between a diatom and a one-hundred-ton blue whale – between one cell and the largest of all animals – and that link is the Antarctic krill. —David G. Campbell, The Crystal Desert (1992) 

A different visit for us today - a shop!  Yes, Port Lockroy is an old British Base that today serves as a little research station, a museum, a souvenir shop and the southern most post office in the world.  I posted heaps of postcards to friends and family but apparently they won't arrive for at least three months.

We went ashore at another penguin colony where the massive skeleton of a blue whale lies mingled with the snow and nests of Gentoos.

We slipped silently along a narrow Lemaire channel filled with mist and an eerie light as the sun tried its best to break through. The kayakers appeared in the distance and it looked like such a wonderful experience for them to have had, alone and islolated in those tiny craft.

A zodiac cruise through icebergs of every shape and colour in the snow was capped off by an incredible sunset on a nameless snow covered mountain.

Antarctica - Day 4 - Mist, Snow, Ice and Paradise

Position: Lat. 64° 53’S, Long. 62° 52’W Speed: 10.8 knots Course: 250° Barometer: 986.6 hPa steady
Wind: 5 knots NE Air temperature: 0° C Sea temperature: 0° Celsius

Penguins are beautiful, interesting and funny. They are a pleasure to watch even though they do smell and their voices are not melodious. —George Gaylord Simpson, Penguins Past and Present

I woke to the words “Iceberg ahead!”. How excited we were as we quickly dressed and began our morning’s occupation. Looming from the mist grotesque shapes in ice, enriched with blues and mauves, delicate clear sculptures of birds and seahorses drifted by amongst larger sculptures, and then it was the turn of the whales. 

A lecture from Keith seemed to conjure two humpback whales close to the ship and then we heard Captain Yury call “Orrrrcas”. Over the next few minutes we saw pairs and small groups of orcas speeding their way in the opposite direction, perhaps explaining why there were so many penguins perched on their temporary drifting homes.

“Four hours until Paradise,” someone called. We filled the time cruising to the much anticipated Paradise Harbour, marvelling at the bergs through snow flurries that at first drifted and then were driven on icy winds. 

For some reason this seemed the ideal time for morning tea outside on the bow. Everyone donned their cold-weather gear and enjoyed rich, hot chocolate and warm, freshly baked Chelsea bun in the snow. 

Our Zodiacs approached the rocks and bright rusty red buildings of the abandoned Argentinean base, as if on cue the mist lifted, it stopped snowing and we enjoyed the next few hours in increasing sunshine.

The climb up the steep hill behind the base was supposedly to take in the magnificent view of our little ship floating on a mirror littered with ice, but we all know the real reason was so that we could slide all the way to the bottom again. After the first few bottoms had moved the snow out of the way there was so much fun and laughter for the rest of us as we accelerated downhill. 

No words or pictures can truly explain what happened next. We cruised in our Zodiacs through a mystical world. Slipping through newly formed slushy ice, bumping over brash ice, gliding around and through exquisite shapes and colours, drifting close to hanging glaciers, marvelling at enormous fissures of impossible blues, and then the sun broke through and recreated the scene all over again, painting it with magical light. 

We had two hours of bliss before returning to a warm ship and an equally stunning cruise along the Neumayer Channel. In amongst all this we managed to wrap gifts, decorate Christmas trees, listen to an excited Eva talk to a friend over the radio at Port Lockroy and eat delicious meals. 

Antarctica - Day 3 - Land Ahoy

Position; Lat. 62° 47’S, Long. 59° 44’W Course: 202° Speed: 9.8 knots Barometer: 982.6 and rising

Wind: 20 knots from W Air temperature: 2° C Sea temperature: 0°C

The Antarctic Convergence is perhaps the longest and most important biological barrier on earth, as formidable as any mountain range or desert. It is an obstacle to the dispersion of birds, fish, and, most important, plankton. —David G. Campbell, The Crystal Desert (1992) 

We awoke after a good night’s sleep to relatively calm seas and dense sea mist. We had crossed the Antarctic Convergence during the evening and were now cruising through Antarctic waters (or ‘Drake Lake’ as it was referred to by Judd).  

Mid-morning we headed down to the lecture theatre for the environmental and Zodiac briefings. You could sense the excitement building amongst all on board as our dreams of experiencing Antarctica were soon to become a reality. 

Judd’s announcement that we were to gear up to go ashore saw us putting on the layers - all that thermal underwear and thick fleece jumpers and rainproof jackets and over-pants that seemed so ridiculous to pack back in Brisbane suddenly seemed inadequate.  

How long would it take you to dress?

1. Thermal underwear - top and bottom

2. 'wicking' tee shirt

3. light fleece jumper or vest

4. thick fleece jacket

5. fleece pants 

6. waterproof over-pants

7. Gumboots 

8. weather proof jacket

9. beanie and scarf and gloves

10. don't forget the sunglasses! waterproof bag and camera!

How long would it take you to learn to walk in all that gear - simple - adopt the penguin waddle!

Climbing down the gangway from ship to Zodiac was accomplished with complete safety and absolutely no elegance. Racing away from the ship, skimming towards the island. losing sight of the ship in the mist and the scent of penguins in the air... we ARE really here!

 Aitcho Island was mist, silence, snow crunching under gumboots and a hive of activity. Gentoo penguins sitting on or re-building stone nests, others waddling back and forth along the penguin highways to the ocean. Strolling in unfamiliar landscape, hearing unfamiliar sounds and trying to soak it all up and treasure it was how we spent the next hour or two. We thought we were pretty clever seeing three species of penguin on the first day chinstrap, gentoo and adelie

Layers of warm, wet-weather gear were peeled off, and we were back in the dining rooms for a delicious curry. After dinner it was straight back up to the bridge still looking for THAT iceberg!  What a way to spend an evening, new companions, magical seascape, calm seas.

Gentoo

Chinstrap

adelie

Antarctica - Day 2 - Drake Passage

Position at 2030 hours: Lat. 58° 32.6’S, Long. 63° 23.4’W Speed: 12.2 knots

Wind: 16 knots W Air temperature: 5° C Sea temperature: 3° C

Roll on, thou deep and dark blue Ocean – roll! Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain;
Man marks the earth with ruin – his control Stops with the shore.   —Lord Byron 


Woke early to the gentle rolling of the ship and the quiet hum of the engines. It was only 5.30 a.m. and already light.  Max, the only other hardy passenger at this early hour, was standing legs akimbo, and I joined him slowly to test my sea legs across pitching deck. We stood wedged against the rail to marvel at the vast ocean surrounding the ship. There was no sign of the land we had left the previous night, and we could feel the gentle roll of the Polar Pioneer as she made her way through the heaving, grey ocean. A watery sun glowed faintly through the thin cloud, and I imagined what it must feel like to be a lone sailor on this vast ocean.

We watched black-browed albatrosses and giant petrels soar over the waves, Cape petrels swoop under the bow of the ship and tiny Antarctic prions appear and disappear between the swells. Then a wandering albatross with a lot of white on its wings, the master of soaring, came into view. We felt very satisfied with our early morning sightings and returned to the sleeping passengers below. 

The day continued with time on the bridge bird-watching, and chatting between passengers and crew for some.  Others, such as myself, spent the day horizontal in our cabins, trying to fight off sea sickness in the large rolling swell that was attacking us from our stern quarter.  I managed to take myself to Captain’s drinks but was soon back to the couch.  Max coping so well that he occasionally supplied me with drinks and meals, climbing up and down stairs with hands full of cups and plates when I couldn't even stand.

Max on the Bridge - it became his favourite place - first there in the morning and not quite last to leave at night.

Antarctica - Day 1 - Sailing from Ushuaia

No words will describe it, no pictures will let you see it... you have to experience Antarctia.  It was truly wonderful.

Passengers on the ship were asked to choose one day of our voyage and write about if for the Ship's Log.  I have included exerpts from the log, so the text below in italics is from shipmates who shared their thoughts and experiences with us all, or the quote of the day which greeted us each morning over the pa system in our cabins.

The land was gone, all but a little streak, away off on the edge of the water, and down under us was just ocean, ocean, ocean – millions of miles of it, heaving and pitching and squirming, and white sprays blowing from the wave-tops ... and we had the sky and the ocean to ourselves, and the roomiest place I ever did see.
—Mark Twain, Tom Sawyer Abroad 

Position: Lat. 54 ̊ 53.5’S, Long. 67 ̊ 42.9’W
Speed: 12.2 knots Course: 96 ̊ Barometer: 995.9 hPa steady
Wind: 6 knots W Air temperature: 9 ̊C Sea temperature: 7.3 ̊C

Friday, 17 December
Polar Pioneer must have docked in the early hours of the morning, as when I walk down to the docks first thing there she is at the end, with her star logo on the funnel. It’s a chilly morning in Ushuaia, with a bit of sleet blowing around and a day to spend before boarding. 


Through passport control and the dock seems endless as I head right to the end where I can see a big pile of bags and people standing around the gangway of Polar Pioneer. A very warm welcome from Judd and Maggie, our expedition leader and assistant leader, and I can feel all the last minute frazzle already fading away.

Up the gangway and into the Captains Suite.  We can't believe our luck  We have the upgrade, and after a little happy dance a knock at the door reveals terry the hotel manager with a bottle of champagne for us.  Wooo Hoo!

We meet up with the other passengers and the Aurora staff up on the bridge, with a sweeping view on three sides it will be a great vantage point when it is too cold outside. Judd makes us welcome and lets us know that he will be leading the expedition rather than Don, who has a medical problem. We meet all the staff and hear some basics about how the boat will operate and what is expected of us. The lifeboat drill, with the bulky life vests, is a cause for some nervous laughter and the first of many photos.

We hear the engines change and an announcement that we are now pulling out from the dock. On our way at last. We race up to the flybridge and say goodbye to the mountains around Ushuaia and hello to the Southern Ocean.

Our first dinner then up to the bridge as the long twilight sets in, to watch our exit from the Beagle Channel. By the time we round the last headland most passengers are trying to sleep as the ship starts to roll and a few tummies start to roll too.

Photo by Hannah

Feliz Navidad

Until the 27th December when we will be back in Ushuaia, 

we wish you a  

Merry Christmas 

from the bottom of our hearts,

and the world.

Hello Ushuaia

After leaving the lodge we arrived in Punta Arenas and had a wonderful dinner with new friends from Santiago who had shared the experience at Explora with us.  Wonderful meal and wine and lots of laughs before an early rise and the bus trip!

THE BUS TRIP!!!!  Our 37th Wedding Anniversay

What can I tell you?  The scenery is incredible, vast plains thousand of kilometres of flat land with a backdrop of the most amazing variety of blues and unusual clouds.  Sheep, cattle, strange birds and fences and gates and houses and rough, narrow roads, the bus constantly slowing down for pot holes or passing traffic.  Smiling people and a 3 year old girl with a toy that played 3 blind mice over and over and over and over again.

Border control, passports, papers, more smiles and nods and then, OK unpack the bus... yes everything... and bring it inside to the scanner!

The Atlantic Ocean on our right, a small town to change busses and ... there are two to may people for the next part of our trip, would you like to get off and wait for the next bus!???  (No we didn´t, but a young pair of back packer´s did volunteer, but not until after the next bus had arrived and they made sure there were seats on it, experienced travellers for sure!!)

13hours later we arrived in Ushuaia,  the southern most city in the world.  One of the most scenic drives you can imagine through scnow-capped mountains and lake-filled valleys before arriving over the crest with a view of the town at the edge of the Beagle Channel and ... next stop Antactica. 

Christmas window Ushuaia

We met 2 Australians on the bus, young back packers who downloaded lots of my photos onto a memory stick for me as we drove along through Tierra del Fuego... surreal.  I gave them a bag of licorice that I had bought in Australia in return,  and you would have thought it was Christmas from the looks on their faces.  (Hang On - It Is Christmas!)

So lunch for our anniversary was chocolate from the Chilean border and a a hot dog from the Argentinian border 5 km away (the land in between is in dispute -  no-mans land) and a coffee from a tiny town called Tolhuin along the way.  Dinner was a packet of chips and a lemonade from the mini bar as we arrived here so late.

Today (16th) we have had a lovely walk and lunch in town, as >I wandered through the many and varied tourist shops amd peered in the window of delicatesans, bakeries and chocolate shops, the snow was falling. It is very cold and we have decided to eat in the restaurant of the hotel tonight.

In the morning we will be able to watch our little ship from our bedroom window as it sails up the Beagle Channel.  It is to arrive at 7.00am.  I am so excited.

 

Farewell Explora Salto Chico

I cannot believe that this time last week I was at work!  A world away and a life unlike any I have experienced before makes it seem much longer, but then it has gone in a snap. 

The mountains have dominated our 4 days here, but the people we have met and the new experiences have made it such a happy time for us.  Chilean people are warm and welcoming and friendly, the staff here are courteous and professional as you would expect, but I am sure they keep their jobs because of their rapport with people and their genuine love for what they do.

We spent our last morning wandering the fields and hillsides around horse stables about 5km from the lodge.  We had a guide all to ourselves who is an expert bird watcher and our driver loves birds too, so we spotted many along the way.  The walk was so pleasant, we saw many birds that are so unusual to us and things like plovers and ibis and sparrows that are similar in all but the colours.

Lunch and then a walk in the cold winds along the boardwalks that surround the lodge and give views of the waterfall, lake and of course these beatiful mountains. 

Sad to say goodbye, but excited to think of what lies ahead.

The Three Towers

A relaxing morning spent around the lodge today as Max seems to have a touch of sunstroke and needs lots of rest, he is sleeping a lot, almost 22 hours in the last 30.  Hopefully he will feel better tomorrow - it is our last night here and tomorrow e plan a birdwatching excursion before we leave after lunch.

We (I) have had a fabulous day.  Went to a Quincho ( a bbq unlike any other I have been to) and than a 6 km walk to a vantage point to look at the Towers del Paine.   We have been looking at images of these towers for over 12 months and Max was too unwell to walk it.  They are awe inspiring and it was such a lovely walk across rolling hills in the sunshine.

I will write more about today later on, off to look after my man.

Caroline and me in front of the towers