Sunday, December 19, 2010

Antarctica - Day 3 - Land Ahoy

Position; Lat. 62° 47’S, Long. 59° 44’W Course: 202° Speed: 9.8 knots Barometer: 982.6 and rising
Wind: 20 knots from W Air temperature: 2° C Sea temperature: 0°C

The Antarctic Convergence is perhaps the longest and most important biological barrier on earth, as formidable as any mountain range or desert. It is an obstacle to the dispersion of birds, fish, and, most important, plankton. —David G. Campbell, The Crystal Desert (1992) 


We awoke after a good night’s sleep to relatively calm seas and dense sea mist. We had crossed the Antarctic Convergence during the evening and were now cruising through Antarctic waters (or ‘Drake Lake’ as it was referred to by Judd).  

Mid-morning we headed down to the lecture theatre for the environmental and Zodiac briefings. You could sense the excitement building amongst all on board as our dreams of experiencing Antarctica were soon to become a reality. 
Judd’s announcement that we were to gear up to go ashore saw us putting on the layers - all that thermal underwear and thick fleece jumpers and rainproof jackets and over-pants that seemed so ridiculous to pack back in Brisbane suddenly seemed inadequate.  

How long would it take you to dress?

1. Thermal underwear - top and bottom
2. 'wicking' tee shirt
3. light fleece jumper or vest
4. thick fleece jacket
5. fleece pants 
6. waterproof over-pants
7. Gumboots 
8. weather proof jacket
9. beanie and scarf and gloves
10. don't forget the sunglasses! waterproof bag and camera!

How long would it take you to learn to walk in all that gear - simple - adopt the penguin waddle!

Climbing down the gangway from ship to Zodiac was accomplished with complete safety and absolutely no elegance. Racing away from the ship, skimming towards the island. losing sight of the ship in the mist and the scent of penguins in the air... we ARE really here!



 Aitcho Island was mist, silence, snow crunching under gumboots and a hive of activity. Gentoo penguins sitting on or re-building stone nests, others waddling back and forth along the penguin highways to the ocean. Strolling in unfamiliar landscape, hearing unfamiliar sounds and trying to soak it all up and treasure it was how we spent the next hour or two. We thought we were pretty clever seeing three species of penguin on the first day chinstrap, gentoo and adelie

Layers of warm, wet-weather gear were peeled off, and we were back in the dining rooms for a delicious curry. After dinner it was straight back up to the bridge still looking for THAT iceberg!  What a way to spend an evening, new companions, magical seascape, calm seas.
Gentoo

Chinstrap

adelie

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