Fantastisk

No, I didn't make a spelling mistake in the headline, FANTASTISK is Norwegian for WONDERFUL.  Today we had another day that is so hard to put into words.

We woke to a low blanket smothering the view and thick snow falling softly but swiftly from the heavens. We were concerned as we had a full day sightseeing today along spectacular mountain roads, on a ferry to the end of the longest fjord in Norway, and onto the world famous Flam Railway for the journey back to our hotel.

We rugged up and set off as the snow stopped. The view was enchanting with its fresh coat over an already winter landscape of houses with roofs of enormous snow pancake stacks, fences with just the top of the posts emerging, rivers rushing through meringue that had been whipped and smothered over every still surface and we alighted at the end of the journey just as blue sky began to peep through.

We stood at the end of the fjord and watched a car and passenger ferry create gently rolling ripples on the mirror surface, to arrive, dock and take passengers precisely on time. Our cruise took us between cliffs that plunged into the sea from 1500m above us. Waterfalls frozen mid stream clung to crags, and snow metres thick decorated the landscape like an impossibly beautiful Christmas Card. We sailed past a tiny church built in 1163, part of a small cluster of homes of a village on the shores of the fjord, the mountains looked like something from Lord of the Rings, you could easily imagine dwarves and gold and horrors inside that immense rock. And then the sun broke through and the landscape glowed in a new light.

Our journey ended at the end of the fjord and waiting for us was a small train to take us on the most scenic train ride in the world, The Flam Railway. Twenty kilometres of twisting track rising 866m. Cliffs, mountains, tunnels, rivers, waterfalls, snow, snow and snow.  We stopped in the middle of the track, were allowed off the train onto a small flat walkway beside a huge drop,  we walked in thick soft snow and breathed in the beauty that surrounded us.

Our journey ended when the train pulled up right outside our hotel, we drifted inside, ordered a drink, and sat trying to absorb the wonder of the day.

Norway by Candlelight

Breakfast at the hotel at 8.30am this morning was served in subdued lighting ... corner lamps, uplights at curtains and serving tables, and candles everywhere. The bar this afternoon at 3.30pm, each small table set with fine linen doilies under candles,  candles in wall sconces and above the fireplace, all enhance with the glow of candlelit chandeliers.

Dinner this evening at 7.00pm, a beautiful dining room with elegant decor in timber, glass, guilt framed mirrors and chandeliers, and of course, a new candle lit for each diner as they took their table. It was all elegance and charm from the antique crockery marked with the hotels insignia, through to the crisp linen and beautiful glassware, expert service fine food and a pianist playing e grand piano in the corner of the room. I read a quote once from a woman who said she only looked good in two kinds of light, moon light and candle light. I think she must have been Norwegian.

Norway in a Nutshell

Bergen is an old city, established 1383, and some buildings around the dock area retain their facades, the city centre has a large cobblestone mall with beautiful bronze statues at strategic places... the expected Vikings and explorers celebrating their history ... the unexpected, a bare foot homeless boy leaning up against the steps of an office building, a modern young girl standing casually against a shop entrance. We walked the dock area and then grabbed our bags and walked the 1k to the train station. The walk took us past a high end shopping precinct with beautifully stage windows, but no prices, then into a very quaint market area closed to cars, all cobblestones and old pitch roofed buildings and offering food and wares to tourists, but not too tacky really, quite charming in fact.

Norway in a Nutshell

Here we sit waiting for the train to Voss. Other passengers surround us in the warm cafe drinking hot chocolate ... a grandma with two grand daughters and their backpacks and skis,  young people off to ski for the day, and other tourists of cours

What a train ride. This is the first day of our 3 day 'Norway in a Nutshell' tour. The train is clean and warm, quiet and spacious. 

The line travels into the mountains and onto Oslo. We disappear into tunnels for 10 minutes at a time and pop out beside a fjord decorated with snow and ice and tiny boat houses and an occasional village and then we plunge into darkness again. After an hour or so the fjord disappeared and the rushing river that feeds it claimed the scenery.  A tumbling of icy clear water over rocks and around snowy, pine filled islands and of course the higher into the mountains, the deeper the snow, the thicker the ice on the backwaters and the swifter the river became.

 We pulled into Voss, our home for 2 nights. The hotel is adjacent to the train line. It is so lovely, established in 1864, and the old world charm is genuine in the solid timber doors, high ceilings and period furniture and the scent that only lovely clean old places can give. Our room is spacious and our view is beautiful, over a lake and into the mountains. Here is the blurb from the website about this lovely old hotel.

There is something about Fleischer's Hotel. You notice it when you stand outside the tall wooden building, with pointed towers, spires and bay windows in a myriad of Swiss and dragon style. You notice it when you walk into the lobby and see signatures of former greats who have been here before you. When you walk through the hallways and hear history whispering to you. You sit in the dining room, as Emperor Wilhelm of Germany did, so Edvard Grieg did, indeed, so even the Prince of Siam did.

Here came, princes and princesses, kings and queens, princes and emperors. To Voss, after days on end of travel. They traveled by steamer and rail and horse- drawn carriage along the dusty roads. Through sparsely populated rural areas. Over windswept mountain passes.

In the middle of this beautiful but desolate landscape, right in this nothing far off the beaten track , they found someone who could give them what they were used to, which made them feel at home. And that's exactly how we want you to feel it too.

And when you come into your own room, it's the same views over “Vangsvatnet”, the green hills and the mighty “Gråsida” that have always been there.

It was there when Johan Seckman Fleischer, ancestor of the Fleischer family, came to Voss as a judge in the mid -1700s. It was here when Emperor Wilhelm came here, again and again in the 1890s. And it is here for you. Here today. Welcome 

We ventured out to walk along the lakeside and into town but only got a few hundred metres and rain began to fall, so back to the bar. Carved and ornately panelled timber work, soft leather couches covered in animal skins ( we think perhaps reindeer and hope the others were not arctic wolf or some rare animal) ordered a beer and a baileys or two, and spent the next hour or so in front of an open fire, bliss.

Arriving in Bergen

A bleak day, with extremely strong winds heeling the ship to starboard and creating a large swell for us to ride once again between rocky outcrops, tiny islands and a steep and rocky shoreline. The skill of the captain has to be admired, as he has to fight the weather and navigate extremely narrow waterways at times.  I guess he comes from a long line of skilled sailors judging by the beautiful tall ship in dock.

The conditions revealed a rugged beauty, and an admiration too, of the people who build houses at the edge of the sea on solid rock on the only piece of flat land for a mile or so, and then another house appears. The views must be wonderful views from their homes, but most of them bare the full brunt of the whatever the weather can throw at them.

We eventually arrived in Bergen, a large city with every building clinging to a view for miles before the Hurtigruten quay. The harbour is cluttered with old wharf buildings that are now smart hotels with expensive views. Our captain reversed the ship to the quayside, amazing, and then with usual efficiency we collected our bags, boarded a bus and arrived at our hotel. Smart and recently refurbished, we were amazed at the quality of the decor in our room, so many cushions that when we took them off the bed there was nowhere to put them. And the pillow, the biggest in the world, 1m long and 75cm wide and about 50cm thick. All the ingredients for a great night in!

A Fairytale.

Magical was the right word choice for the view, and was a promise of what was to come. I struggle to find the words to describe this afternoon. It seems we went from a postcard into a fairytale.

Firstly the sun broke through, the sky cleared and we sailed through a narrow passage strewn with small rocky islands, some boasting grasses, some with lights or light houses. Between two of these larger rocky outcrops we turned to port and the enchantment began as we entered Kristansund.

Snow covered mountains provided a backdrop for gentle slopes of steep pitched roofs sprinkled with snow, on houses painted rust red or mustard yellow. The conifers that filled the gardens and parks and roadside, were dusted with snow, the waters sparkled in the sunshine and the marinas were filled with yachts and work boats that glistened in the clear light.

Our first sunset lit this beautiful setting with perfect golden light. The whole ship was enchanted, even crew members were on deck taking photos, and the crisp air did not prevent most people venturing outside with their cameras, or just to gaze in wonder.

Undoubtably this is the most picturesque harbour we have entered. We stopped for 20 minutes or so, just long enough to offload supplies for the town and we were on our way again. The last of the sunset turned the sky orange and made this afternoon a fitting finale to a wonderful voyage.

Trondheim

The ship is very comfortable, I don't mean the furnishings, I mean the way it rides the sea. While the fjords are calm you can barely hear the ship and it rides more smoothly than driving a highway, when out in the open sea and the big swell, it seems to effortlessly lift and stabilise the roll so that we have had a very enjoyable journey.

This morning we went on a short sightseeing trip around Trondheim while the ship was in port. a beautiful ancient city settled around 900ad.  King Olaf, the man credited with bringing Norwegian clans together and Christianity to the Vikings, is buried here, and the cathedral is a beautiful building holding his grave and the spiritual heart of Norway.

 

It was a very enjoyable tour of the town, the old heart and ancient stone houses, university, old wharf buildings right on the river and more modern timber homes built with impossibly beautiful views of mountain and harbour,  and quite affordable for a young family starting out in life apparently, at just $1,000,000.00.

We sailed from Trondheim along the fjord in sunshine and our warmest day, reaching 5 degC. Lunch was the usual spread of salmon and other fish, caviar, cold meats, salads, and some warm dishes of fish and meats and vegetables. Desserts always impress and I am a new fan of pannacotta with marinated berries. We have retired to the panorama deck for our last full day of cruising and unfortunately the clouds have rolled in again. It is quiet, everyone around me reading books, studying maps, going through their photos, embroidering, knitting, drinking wine and always looking through the large windows in the hope the sun will reveal itself again. We have had a hour or so of a snow storm, tiny flakes zooming in every direction around the ship. It has passed, and the scene before us is once again a postcard, refreshed with a new coating of pure white, magical against the blue grey sea and sky.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

The clouds were still here when we woke. Rain clouds, sleet clouds, snow clouds. A miserable looking day, but we all settled in optimistically after breakfast hoping for a break. It was a good day to do the washing, a fully automated system here, and it's free, so it was great to get a mundane chore done without missing anything spectacular. We were fortunate enough to watch 6 Norwegian Eagles and a squall of seagulls feeding behind a little fishing boat as we cruised past, they are a  massive bird with a wingspan up to 2.5m.

The highlight today was crossing the Arctic Circle. The rain cleared and a teary sun poked  through for about 30 minutes, perfect timing for us to be out on deck and observe the beautiful steel globe structure that has been erected on the rock that marks the exact line. Of course a little fun was to be had with that and Max took part in a ceremony to mark the occasion where he ended up drinking a spoonful of cod liver oil and won himself an engraved 'silver' spoon as a souvenir.

My lens has broken... Irretrievably, and trying to find a new lens reading Norwegian  websites is pretty difficult if you don't speak the language.  Luckily a fellow photography enthusiast nearby has helped me interpret what I need to know and I should be able to buy a new (and better) lens to replace this one. Hopefully my travel insurance will cover the old lens and will offset the cost a bit when I get home.

The sky cleared for an hour or two to reveal a change in scenery. The Gulf Stream sweeps along this part of the coast and the snow is only to be seen higher up the mountain slopes, grass and trees still with leaves appear on small areas of farmland where people raise sheep. No lights tonight, the clouds are back.  Our last chance tomorrow night, thank goodness we saw them on our first night, how lucky we were.

Postcard Perfect

The forecast gales did not happen. We had smooth waters all day, gliding between sunlit mountains and colourful villages. Max was up early again  - saw a warship go by, and a majestic Norwegian White tailed eagle.

I met a couple of Scottish ladies today, I enjoyed their company as they chatted about Edinburgh and Stirling, two places we enjoyed when we visited Scotland years ago. There are people of all nationalities on board, we are surrounded by languages we cannot understand, and that includes the few Irish people travelling together. We haven't encountered any other Aussies on this trip.

We took a short walk to the Hurtigruten Museum at one of the stops today, all started by one man and a dream, as many great things are. It is a massive business today, and I have to admire the dedicated friendliness, attention to detail and routine, and seamless organisation that makes the trip run so well.

The weather was cold but not freezing, so time out on the upper deck admiring the view was a pleasure, and as evening closed in we ventured down the narrow and spectacular RaftSund. One after the next, ice and snow covered pyramids closed in on the ship, and we slipped by only 20 metres away at times as seemingly dead ends appeared in every direction, and again small houses at the edge of the wilderness surprise you. Every now and then you glimpse part of a road, the main highway that links the country, but it soon disappears into tunnels, an amazing feat of engineering. Stunning scenery, such an easy and pleasant day.

Cruising fjords in winter

Max woke early this morning to a brilliant red sunrise which was soon smothered by a snow storm. I woke late to a snow storm that soon gave way to beautiful soft blue sky and gentle sunshine just in time for our visit to Hammerfest, the most northern town in Europe. People opted for bus tours of the town, but we wanted to go for a stroll and breathe fresh air without the blast of arctic winds that greet us whenever we venture outside on the decks.  The area near the port has a few shops and museums, parks and office buildings.  It is strange for us to be walking in ice and snow, and it was interesting walking along the waterfront and see sturdy fishing vessels ready for sea, and others filled with metres of snow and waiting for better weather.

It is so picturesque cruising these fiords, steep harsh rock peeps through sprinkles of snow that softens the peaks high up as it becomes metres thick, truly like icing on a cake. Tiny villages appear clinging to the small amount of flat land to be had between the mountains and the sea, sometimes just a few houses, other times a substantial town all sharing such a hostile winter environment. They surely are a hardyeople.

Our evening finished with a meal to represent the northern lights,  the potato and wild garlic soup must be the snow storms, the poach salmon and pickled carrot surrounded by a bright green coulis must be the lights the vodka marinated reindeer must represent what everyone does to keep warm, drink and wear reindeer hats,  and the blackberry pana cotta dessert, Maybe that is the bright red dawn of a new day. We retired early again, just can't stay up at the moment, another snow storm has swept in, so no northern lights tonight.

Hurtigruten - aboard MS Finnemarken

Today we begin our travels South along the coast of Norway. We boarded the Hurtigruten ship Finnmarken, and found our room. 529 is a mini suite, small but comfortable, with a small lounge area, desk, comfortable beds and bathroom.  Our cabin is on the port side, so from our windows we see the land and islands sliding by, but the panorama deck is the place to be. A large lounge area with comfortable chairs to relax in front of picture windows and enjoy the scenery. The ship is old but recently refurbished, so very nice to be in. 

We enjoyed a lunch sampling all the foods that seemed unusual to us, like herring in mayonnaise, and pickled herring, and caviar, and smoke char, and smoked halibut, and lots of fresh crunchy salads made primarily with one vegetable and flavourings. We then ventured with binoculars and camera in hand, found some seats at the bow end of the panorama deck and began our search for the Northern lights.  The weather was perfect, clear blue skies became night very early, the sunset at about 3pm, and about 5pm we saw them, shimmering sweeps of emerald green surging towards us from the island strewn horizon. Dim at first then deepening and glowing and sway across the sky... 20 minutes and they were gone. But what magic on our first night on the ship. Jet lag claimed us again and we missed dinner. Sound asleep at 6.30pm.  Max woke, showered and was up by 3am, he is in bed now as I write this, hopefully he has a big afternoon sleep and then a good sleep tonight and can get his head into this time zone.

... And for dinner ...

Wish we could say we caught the, ourselves, but they are both fresh local produce. The king crab spring rolls were fabulous, the crab itself can grow up to 5ft across between the claws.  The Char is a bit trout-like and a magnificent colour, very sweet. Cooked and served beautifully.

Yep, we are on hoildays

We woke at 2am, tried to doze until 6am before walking in the darkness along icy cobblestones reflecting old street lights and modern window displays. We arrived at the train station in time to catch the 6.34am train instead of the intended 6.48am. (That is Max for you!)

The train has quiet carriages, I mean, every where there are signs in the carriage to be quite. It was like sitting in a library or a church. We proceeded through the airport routines thanks to marvellous Norwegian efficiency ... signs in Norge and English, a friendly person stationed just where help was needed to manage the fully automated checking in, bag drop and security checks all with a smile and utmost courtesy. We breakfasted on a traditional waffle with caramel cheese, jam and sour cream and a fabulous hot coffee.

Boarding into economy was a bit of a let down and we were jammed like the proverbial sardines for the 2 hour flight North. We paused before take off for the plane to be washed down with glycol to remove ice and snow and then we left the grey behind, climbed through the clouds into brilliant sunshine and beyond the Arctic circle. Decent into Kirkenes revealed a snow covered landscape of hills and mountains and rivers and lakes alight with the soft golden glow that a sun low on the horizon can produce, and it was barely midday.

The beanies and gloves and jackets and scarves that seemed so ridiculous at home in the sub tropics, now played their part perfectly as we walked into -6c with a stiff breeze making it seem more like -15c. We smiled during the entire bus trip into town, everything covered in a metre or two of snow like so many Christmas cards that never quite seemed real. Even a car wreckers yard looks beautiful covered in that much snow! We passed back yards deserted for the winter, boats filled with snow in the driveways, trampolines sagging under its weight waiting for the children in spring, and motor homes parked behind garages looking neglected.

The town revealed itself like a series of postcards and we settled into a room with a view so u usual to Queenslanders. We sat in the bar drinking Spanish wine and Norwegian Christmas beer, munching on a snack of reindeer sausage and Norwegian ham, watching people go about life in their village. The Restaurant manager came by and chatted with us for. About 20 minutes or so, telling us wonderful stories and tis bits of information ... Like did you know that this is a popular surfing spot in winter??? .... And tonight we dine on a meal prepared solely from local produce .... And cloudy days clear up to reveal clear nights and the chance for the northern lights to enthrall us. Yep, we are on holidays.

A World Below

A massive expanse of lights and curved buildings loomed out of the darkness and we landed in Dubai. We only had an hour or so between flights and by the time we walked the distance to the lounge, freshened up, and spent time admiring exotic decor, it was time to board our 777 for the 9 hour flight to Oslo. It was a journey of impeccable service, spacious seats and gob smacking scenery.
 (sorry, just had to pause to use another beautifully scented and warmed face washer to refresh myself 😺)



Nothing I had imagined prepared me for the vast mountainous deserts of Iran. So inhospitable it seems impossible that thousands of generations have made this land their home. Our flight took us along the edge of the Caspian Sea and a blanket of cloud.  After a short snooze Max woke me to the absolutely stunning sight of vast craggy, snow-covered mountains as we flew towards Russia. Now as I type this we are flying over an incredible blue-grey and White patterned landscape. Farms and roads and towns laid out before us for hundreds of miles. Snow fills every dip and smooths every open space but for fences and forests and roads, and all lit by the softness of the morning sunshine.

From 12500m up the world is a calm and beautiful place, hiding the angst and hardships and destruction that the people who live below experience on a daily basis. And here we are in downtown Oslo.  Booked in, showered and relaxing in a charming old hotel not far from the Palace in the centre of town. We are bit zonked out so more about Oslo when we return here for a few days next week. WOW... What a 24 hours!

Business Class... The only way to fly!

We begin our trip sipping champagne in the Emirates lounge, waiting for the giant Airbus 380 to take on passengers. Part of the package with the ticket is a limousine service, so a lovely black merc picked us up about 5.30 and it has been smooth sailing since we shut our front door.

A few hours ago I was wet and muddy, trying to finish the garden and edges and weeding off between showers of rain.

Our seat is fabulous, max can't even reach his feet out to touch the seat in front, I can't touch the seat in front unless I unbuckle my seat belt and move forward in the seat! All that, your own mini bar, large tv, seats that recline to be totally flat (yes I did get a good 8 hours sleep) and a bar at the end of the seating where you can spend some time away from your seat. So civilised!

North

We are heading overseas again, so I am resurrecting our blog.  This trip we are going to Norway, Belgium, France and Spain for 6 weeks.  We leave 15 February 2015 in our hottest month where our averages go from sunshine and 23 to 29 Celcius and arrive in Kirkenes where it may be snowing and the average temperature is -6 to 1Celcius.  We're excited!