Monday, December 27, 2010
Antarctic Cruise Map
Thought this may be of interest to show exactly where our cruise went in Antarctica.
Day 9, 10 and 11 - Drake Passage; Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
Saturday, 25 December 2010
Drake Passage
Position at 1000 hours: Lat. 60° 09’S, Long. 63° 25’W Speed: 9.7 knots Course: 342° Barometer: 973.3 hPa falling Wind: 10 knots N Air temperature: 3° C Sea temperature: 2° C
The first view of Antarctica is always an iceberg. It may be a monolith hovering on the horizon, a barely discernable spectre looming out of the mist, or perhaps a sun-spangled, dazzling icon marking the gateway to this new world. It will undoubtedly be icebergs that leave the most lasting impressions on the imagination. —Mark Jones, Wild Ice
Sunday, 26 December 2010
Drake Passage; Cape Horn
Position at 1600 hours: Lat. 55° 50’S, Long. 66° 25’W Speed: 11.7 knots Course: 360° Barometer: 982.6 hPa WIND: Calm Air temperature: 10° C Sea temperature: 6.9° C
Antarctica left a restless longing in my heart beckoning towards an incomprehensible perfection forever beyond the reach of mortal man. Its overwhelming beauty touches one so deeply that it is like a wound.
—Edwin Mickleburgh, Beyond the Frozen Sea
Many people were discussing post-voyage plans over breakfast, looking to see if they’d meet up with anyone as their journeys continue to other parts of South America. A pre-arrival briefing led by Maggie and Judd let us all know what to do with our luggage, passports, customs control, disembarkation, tipping and farewells. Into the bar, and we pay our ship accounts with Terry and give Maggie our email address so we can all stay in touch post voyage and receive the ship’s log which people have contributed to throughout the voyage.
A crowd gathered on the bridge as we sighted Cape Horn in the distance and slowly approached to 12 nautical miles out from land before the Chileans had cause to call and see what we were up to. Changing course to starboard, we headed towards the Beagle Channel.
We settled in the lecture room for a slideshow of people’s favourite photos from the trip. Each passenger was asked to contribute 3 of their favourite pics, and a few cmpuet savvy and creative folk put them together in a movie presentation. It was great to review the trip and see what everyone else saw, often different from your own perspective and experiences. If you have 10 minutes to spare please watch it.
Following dinner we all met in the bar to reminisce about our favourite parts of the trip. We heard from our fellow travellers of their experiences. It is hard to believe the trip is almost over, but upon reflection, we managed to see and do a lot of different things. Shore landings, iceberg cruises, historic sites, wildlife, whale-watching, and of course eating were enjoyed by all!!
It has been a bit of a whirlwind and I don’t think it has sunk in yet that we’ve been to Antarctica – the great white continent. Our dreams to experience this cold, snowy wonderland now fulfilled, some are at a loss as to how to top this adventure. Others now have a taste for Antarctica and contemplate the ways in which they can return.
We finished off the last full day of the trip with friends, memories, drinks and a picturesque sunset. What an experience Antarctica has been!
Monday, 27 December 2010
Beagle Channel; Ushuaia
Position: Lat. 58° 48’ S, Long. 68° 18’ W Speed: n/a Course: n/a Barometer: 991.9 hPa
Wind: 5 knots Air temperature: 8° C Sea temperature: 7.7° C
A Journey is a person in itself, no two are alike, and all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us... —John Steinbeck
We pulled up alongside the wharf just after 7.00 a.m. this morning after a nice smooth cruise through the Beagle Channel. Farewells and hugs and a sadness that I may never return to this most unique and excitingly beautiful place. The ship travelled a distance travelled of 1,721.6 nautical miles but treasured memories of Antarctica will always be only a few seconds away.
Drake Passage
Position at 1000 hours: Lat. 60° 09’S, Long. 63° 25’W Speed: 9.7 knots Course: 342° Barometer: 973.3 hPa falling Wind: 10 knots N Air temperature: 3° C Sea temperature: 2° C
The first view of Antarctica is always an iceberg. It may be a monolith hovering on the horizon, a barely discernable spectre looming out of the mist, or perhaps a sun-spangled, dazzling icon marking the gateway to this new world. It will undoubtedly be icebergs that leave the most lasting impressions on the imagination. —Mark Jones, Wild Ice
Sunday, 26 December 2010
Drake Passage; Cape Horn
Position at 1600 hours: Lat. 55° 50’S, Long. 66° 25’W Speed: 11.7 knots Course: 360° Barometer: 982.6 hPa WIND: Calm Air temperature: 10° C Sea temperature: 6.9° C
Antarctica left a restless longing in my heart beckoning towards an incomprehensible perfection forever beyond the reach of mortal man. Its overwhelming beauty touches one so deeply that it is like a wound.
—Edwin Mickleburgh, Beyond the Frozen Sea
Many people were discussing post-voyage plans over breakfast, looking to see if they’d meet up with anyone as their journeys continue to other parts of South America. A pre-arrival briefing led by Maggie and Judd let us all know what to do with our luggage, passports, customs control, disembarkation, tipping and farewells. Into the bar, and we pay our ship accounts with Terry and give Maggie our email address so we can all stay in touch post voyage and receive the ship’s log which people have contributed to throughout the voyage.
A crowd gathered on the bridge as we sighted Cape Horn in the distance and slowly approached to 12 nautical miles out from land before the Chileans had cause to call and see what we were up to. Changing course to starboard, we headed towards the Beagle Channel.
We settled in the lecture room for a slideshow of people’s favourite photos from the trip. Each passenger was asked to contribute 3 of their favourite pics, and a few cmpuet savvy and creative folk put them together in a movie presentation. It was great to review the trip and see what everyone else saw, often different from your own perspective and experiences. If you have 10 minutes to spare please watch it.
Following dinner we all met in the bar to reminisce about our favourite parts of the trip. We heard from our fellow travellers of their experiences. It is hard to believe the trip is almost over, but upon reflection, we managed to see and do a lot of different things. Shore landings, iceberg cruises, historic sites, wildlife, whale-watching, and of course eating were enjoyed by all!!
It has been a bit of a whirlwind and I don’t think it has sunk in yet that we’ve been to Antarctica – the great white continent. Our dreams to experience this cold, snowy wonderland now fulfilled, some are at a loss as to how to top this adventure. Others now have a taste for Antarctica and contemplate the ways in which they can return.
We finished off the last full day of the trip with friends, memories, drinks and a picturesque sunset. What an experience Antarctica has been!
Monday, 27 December 2010
Beagle Channel; Ushuaia
Position: Lat. 58° 48’ S, Long. 68° 18’ W Speed: n/a Course: n/a Barometer: 991.9 hPa
Wind: 5 knots Air temperature: 8° C Sea temperature: 7.7° C
A Journey is a person in itself, no two are alike, and all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us... —John Steinbeck
We pulled up alongside the wharf just after 7.00 a.m. this morning after a nice smooth cruise through the Beagle Channel. Farewells and hugs and a sadness that I may never return to this most unique and excitingly beautiful place. The ship travelled a distance travelled of 1,721.6 nautical miles but treasured memories of Antarctica will always be only a few seconds away.
Friday, December 24, 2010
Antarctica - Day 8 - Whalers Bay, Deception I.
Friday, 24 December 2010
Position (lunchtime): 62° 57’S, Long. 60° 40’W Speed: 6 knots Course: 229° Barometer: 979.9 hPa
Wind: 11 knots Air temperature: 4°C Sea temperature: 1.2°C
And yet, there is only one great thing, the only thing, to see in huts and on journeys: the great day that dawns, and the light that fills the world. —Inuit Poem
We weren’t quite up by 5.50 when Judd came on the PA to wish us a good morning and tell us that we were going to be passing into the caldera mouth of Deception Island in 10 minutes. This is also known as Neptune’s Bellows; luckily we have reached it on a good day!
We reached the flydeck just as the ship was coming past the first jagged cliffs of the entrance. It’s a curious sight coming into the circular lagoon, mists swirling and light snow. Gulls are wheeling round the rocks. As the mist cleared we could see the derelict buildings of Whalers Bay.
We were up on the deck by 7.15, wearing all our layers and the obligatory life jackets and looked out to see Judd is in his Zodiac wearing a Santa hat, Terry has a Santa hat with a reindeer face on it, and Maggie has Christmas dangly earrings and a badge with a flashing light. Christmas has come early to Polar Pioneer.
The island and harbour have been created through volcanic eruptions, the latest in 1969. There is volcanic steam coming from some areas of the beach, and the mist still surrounds us. There are several enormous rusty, circular structures that were used for storing whale oil and a set of boilers for the whaling operations, now home to gulls. At the top of the beach are some dilapidated wooden buildings, partly filled with volcanic ash, one half submerged. The back of the beach has two graves and cairns in tribute to dead whalers.
After everyone had landed, Maggie called us to the round rusty buildings and handed out carol sheets! We stood in the darkness lit just by the light coming in from the doorway and the rust holes in the roof. We did a pretty good job of our singing despite not all of us knowing the hymns, and the acoustics of the whale oil drum were excellent! White Christmas, Silent Night and Oh Come All Ye Faithful probably came out the best. We finished up with Judd bringing Lynnette into the centre of the circle and everyone singing Happy Birthday!
The beach is covered with whaling remains, many whale bones in the sand, wooden boats and burst- open barrels, their wood now fragile. About halfway along the beach we met a Weddell seal, which obligingly posed for us to photograph it. The sun started to come out and the fog lifted.
Judd and Terry took us back to the ship in the last Zodiac, a little downcast as it is our last landing, but also really looking forward to Christmas lunch! We are having it early today on Christmas Eve as tomorrow we will be right in the middle of the Drake Passage and many people may not feel like lunch.
We dressed up for Christmas and the chefs had decorated the dining rooms and set the tables with crackers and bottles of red and white wine. They had produced a superb Christmas lunch; terrine of red snapper, scallops and smoked salmon with lime coconut dressing, red lettuce and fresh brown bread rolls, followed by turkey, stuffing, pigs in blankets, carrots, broccoli, roast potatoes and gravy. Asko taught us to say Happy Christmas in Finnish. Henri gave Lynnette a birthday card with gentoo penguins on which everyone had signed! Eva is learning about the British and Australian tradition of kissing under mistletoe and is carrying some round with her. There was lots of photograph taking by the expeditioners.
We pulled the crackers and donned our cracker hats. Judd arrived dressed in an impressive Santa suit, complete with boots and beard and an Aurora Expeditions kit bag to enthusiastic cheers from everyone. Everyone got a gift from Santa.
After lunch some went up to the bridge as we were leaving the caldera. The mist was closing in and the view was not as good as the morning. There was a definite contrast in the height of the waves between the protected harbour and the sea outside and lots of white crests.
Dinner, a cold buffet, was not very well attended as it was getting much rougher, and many people stayed in the bar or retreated to their cabins to lie down. Terry came into the bar and strapped everything down. He says the conditions are ‘below average’ as the waves are now coming above deck 4. Up on the bridge, Judd described it as ‘medium’. Sitting on the chairs at the front of the bridge was like riding a bucking bronco; the ship plunged heavily into the waves, huge amounts of spray everywhere. We saw an albatross circling and Cape petrels following the ship. We were trying to estimate the height of the waves, but with the swell and wind-generated ones together, the best we achieved was ‘huge!’
Feliz Natal – Bwon Natale – Urolyk Kerstfeest – Hauskaa Joulua – Joyeax Noël.
Position (lunchtime): 62° 57’S, Long. 60° 40’W Speed: 6 knots Course: 229° Barometer: 979.9 hPa
Wind: 11 knots Air temperature: 4°C Sea temperature: 1.2°C
And yet, there is only one great thing, the only thing, to see in huts and on journeys: the great day that dawns, and the light that fills the world. —Inuit Poem
We weren’t quite up by 5.50 when Judd came on the PA to wish us a good morning and tell us that we were going to be passing into the caldera mouth of Deception Island in 10 minutes. This is also known as Neptune’s Bellows; luckily we have reached it on a good day!
We reached the flydeck just as the ship was coming past the first jagged cliffs of the entrance. It’s a curious sight coming into the circular lagoon, mists swirling and light snow. Gulls are wheeling round the rocks. As the mist cleared we could see the derelict buildings of Whalers Bay.
We were up on the deck by 7.15, wearing all our layers and the obligatory life jackets and looked out to see Judd is in his Zodiac wearing a Santa hat, Terry has a Santa hat with a reindeer face on it, and Maggie has Christmas dangly earrings and a badge with a flashing light. Christmas has come early to Polar Pioneer.
The island and harbour have been created through volcanic eruptions, the latest in 1969. There is volcanic steam coming from some areas of the beach, and the mist still surrounds us. There are several enormous rusty, circular structures that were used for storing whale oil and a set of boilers for the whaling operations, now home to gulls. At the top of the beach are some dilapidated wooden buildings, partly filled with volcanic ash, one half submerged. The back of the beach has two graves and cairns in tribute to dead whalers.
After everyone had landed, Maggie called us to the round rusty buildings and handed out carol sheets! We stood in the darkness lit just by the light coming in from the doorway and the rust holes in the roof. We did a pretty good job of our singing despite not all of us knowing the hymns, and the acoustics of the whale oil drum were excellent! White Christmas, Silent Night and Oh Come All Ye Faithful probably came out the best. We finished up with Judd bringing Lynnette into the centre of the circle and everyone singing Happy Birthday!
The beach is covered with whaling remains, many whale bones in the sand, wooden boats and burst- open barrels, their wood now fragile. About halfway along the beach we met a Weddell seal, which obligingly posed for us to photograph it. The sun started to come out and the fog lifted.
Judd and Terry took us back to the ship in the last Zodiac, a little downcast as it is our last landing, but also really looking forward to Christmas lunch! We are having it early today on Christmas Eve as tomorrow we will be right in the middle of the Drake Passage and many people may not feel like lunch.
We dressed up for Christmas and the chefs had decorated the dining rooms and set the tables with crackers and bottles of red and white wine. They had produced a superb Christmas lunch; terrine of red snapper, scallops and smoked salmon with lime coconut dressing, red lettuce and fresh brown bread rolls, followed by turkey, stuffing, pigs in blankets, carrots, broccoli, roast potatoes and gravy. Asko taught us to say Happy Christmas in Finnish. Henri gave Lynnette a birthday card with gentoo penguins on which everyone had signed! Eva is learning about the British and Australian tradition of kissing under mistletoe and is carrying some round with her. There was lots of photograph taking by the expeditioners.
We pulled the crackers and donned our cracker hats. Judd arrived dressed in an impressive Santa suit, complete with boots and beard and an Aurora Expeditions kit bag to enthusiastic cheers from everyone. Everyone got a gift from Santa.
After lunch some went up to the bridge as we were leaving the caldera. The mist was closing in and the view was not as good as the morning. There was a definite contrast in the height of the waves between the protected harbour and the sea outside and lots of white crests.
Dinner, a cold buffet, was not very well attended as it was getting much rougher, and many people stayed in the bar or retreated to their cabins to lie down. Terry came into the bar and strapped everything down. He says the conditions are ‘below average’ as the waves are now coming above deck 4. Up on the bridge, Judd described it as ‘medium’. Sitting on the chairs at the front of the bridge was like riding a bucking bronco; the ship plunged heavily into the waves, huge amounts of spray everywhere. We saw an albatross circling and Cape petrels following the ship. We were trying to estimate the height of the waves, but with the swell and wind-generated ones together, the best we achieved was ‘huge!’
Feliz Natal – Bwon Natale – Urolyk Kerstfeest – Hauskaa Joulua – Joyeax Noël.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Antarctica - Day 7 - Cierva Cove and Mikkelsen Harbour
Position: Lat. 63° 54’S, Long. 60° 47’W Speed: At anchor Course: At anchor Barometer: 977.3 hPa falling Wind: up to 30 knots! Air temperature: 1°C Sea temperature: 0.4°C
They are extraordinarily like children, these little people of the Antarctic world, either like children, or like old men, full of their own importance and late for dinner, in their black tail- coats and white shirt fronts—and rather portly withal. —Apsley Cherry-Garrard, The Worst Journey in the World
Thursday, 23 December 2010
The outlook was bleak, windy, cold and there was light snow. Suddenly there was a humpback, or two or three; one breeches far above the surface of the water; choreographing the ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from those remaining on the bridge.
They are extraordinarily like children, these little people of the Antarctic world, either like children, or like old men, full of their own importance and late for dinner, in their black tail- coats and white shirt fronts—and rather portly withal. —Apsley Cherry-Garrard, The Worst Journey in the World
Thursday, 23 December 2010
Several of us can see whales in the distance, flukes visible as they play around. About three in all, possibly more – humpbacks. A scurry to our cabins to prepare for an excursion to shore. Our Zodiac guides showed us many wonderful sights, firstly a lone penguin on his own special iceberg. Mario said “Whale!”. The search was on, possibly a minke playing about 200 metres away. We caught up and had a chance to photograph him when he decided to surface. Onward to visit Cierva Cove, where we spotted a Weddell seal having a lovely sleep on the ice. We wandered around amongst icebergs, and just before returning to warmth of the ship,
Cameras ready and Zodiac ready. We eagerly awaited the 14 brave souls who had decided to take the polar plunge. Each diver demonstrated their own special style as they dived and jumped and slipped into the 1°C icy Antarctic waters... not us... shiver, shiver. They weren't in long and set a record getting from the deck to the sauna room to warm up. Well done!
The outlook was bleak, windy, cold and there was light snow. Suddenly there was a humpback, or two or three; one breeches far above the surface of the water; choreographing the ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from those remaining on the bridge.
What a great day we have had, and so to bed, cuddle in and enjoy the gentle roll that puts us to sleep.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Antarctica - Day 6 - Cuverville Island; Orne Island; Neko Harbour
Wednesday, 22 December 2010
Position: Lat. 64° 44’S, Long. 62° 38’W Speed: At anchor Course: n/a Barometer: 983.0 hPa
WIND: calm Air temperature: 2°C Sea temperature: 1.4°C
To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing and makes feasts of meat and wine ridiculous. The glacier eats hills and drinks sunbeams. —John Muir
Today has been an amazing.
Our zodicas today headed to Cuverville Island and after a short exploration set of for a cruise looking for wildlife, apparently we have a good chance of seeing minke or humback whales but there was great excitement as we watched a leopard see effortlessly launch itself onto and iceberg, wriggle and rol about until it was comfortable, let out a conted (I've got a belly full of penguins' sigh) and fall asleep and begin to snore. WOW! WOW! WOW!
The weather began to change – for the better. The clouds cleared, the temperature rose and the sun came out. It was pretty exciting, as I don’t think there’s been that much sun on the trip so far. I have enjoyed the moody overcast weather, and especially the way it makes the icebergs glow with unearthly shades of blue and green, but the sunshine lit up the whole landscape in a completely new way. It was such great conditions that Judd announced another quick shore trip to Orne Island to see some chinstrap penguins. Once we zoomed over there, a chain of humans, looking remarkably penguin-like, trekked up to the top of the hill to see the breeding area of the chinstraps and say ‘Gidday’.
Position: Lat. 64° 44’S, Long. 62° 38’W Speed: At anchor Course: n/a Barometer: 983.0 hPa
WIND: calm Air temperature: 2°C Sea temperature: 1.4°C
To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing and makes feasts of meat and wine ridiculous. The glacier eats hills and drinks sunbeams. —John Muir
Today has been an amazing.
We were a bit disappointed last night that camping was a no-go because of the wet snow, however, we were woken from our sleep this morning not by Judd’s usual rendition of an Antarctic poem but by the news that a pod of orcas was near the ship. Many of us sprang out of bed, and most of us managed to throw on some clothes before heading to the bridge or the foredeck. Around 20 orcas were swimming in front of, alongside and even underneath the ship, so close that when you looked into the water you could see the outlines of their bodies. They stayed with us for ages, seemingly enjoying accompanying us and happy to wait for everyone to make it out of bed to see them. People on the front deck were so close to them that they got wet from their spouting.
Our zodicas today headed to Cuverville Island and after a short exploration set of for a cruise looking for wildlife, apparently we have a good chance of seeing minke or humback whales but there was great excitement as we watched a leopard see effortlessly launch itself onto and iceberg, wriggle and rol about until it was comfortable, let out a conted (I've got a belly full of penguins' sigh) and fall asleep and begin to snore. WOW! WOW! WOW!
 |
| That's me, 2nd from the left and Max 2nd from right - thanks for the photo Rene. |
The weather began to change – for the better. The clouds cleared, the temperature rose and the sun came out. It was pretty exciting, as I don’t think there’s been that much sun on the trip so far. I have enjoyed the moody overcast weather, and especially the way it makes the icebergs glow with unearthly shades of blue and green, but the sunshine lit up the whole landscape in a completely new way. It was such great conditions that Judd announced another quick shore trip to Orne Island to see some chinstrap penguins. Once we zoomed over there, a chain of humans, looking remarkably penguin-like, trekked up to the top of the hill to see the breeding area of the chinstraps and say ‘Gidday’.
Another change of clothes once we got back to the ship for a group photo on the foredeck. This time Eva took the costume award for her little black dress, which seemed perfectly appropriate for the sunny afternoon. The Polar Pioneer lifted its anchor and we headed off to Neko Harbour. We travelled there via the Lemaire Channel, which we’d been up the day before, but it was completely different to see it in the sunlight and the day just seemed to get warmer and brighter as the afternoon wore on. Many of us spent the trip on the foredeck enjoying the sun and being completely awestruck by the scenery around us. Icebergs ranging from tiny to massive, nearby mountains looking crystal clear, distant mountains looking ghostlike and dreamy, the sun sparkling.
Arriving at Neko Harbour. It was an extraordinary cruising in the sun over glassy water down the channel, past icebergs, glaciers towering above us and cracking ominously from time to time. Our group fell silent and often just naturally for a peaceful moment of gliding along in the immensity of it all. It was so sunny that we were quite hot and the sun seemed to make Antarctic white even whiter.
Arriving at Neko Harbour. It was an extraordinary cruising in the sun over glassy water down the channel, past icebergs, glaciers towering above us and cracking ominously from time to time. Our group fell silent and often just naturally for a peaceful moment of gliding along in the immensity of it all. It was so sunny that we were quite hot and the sun seemed to make Antarctic white even whiter.
It was stunning to see a transparent jellyfish emitting electrical 'neon' lights, another highlight for me today. I have seen Orcas, penguins, leopard seal, humpback whale, krill and now this amazing creature.
Back on board for the ship BBQ. The kitchen staff did an amazing job, dishing up chicken, pork, sausages, corn and even a few chili prawns, along with salad and finished off with ice cream. A vat of
mulled wine and plenty of beer meant the party got going with a swing and the dancing started early and went late. Something about the silly hats seemed to bring out a whole different side of people!
The sun set slowly over the mountains and the light changed from brilliant sunlight to a beautiful Antarctic twilight. Finally the last dancers straggled off the rear deck after 11.00 p.m., threw their hats and wigs back into the fancy dress box and headed for bed.
Back on board for the ship BBQ. The kitchen staff did an amazing job, dishing up chicken, pork, sausages, corn and even a few chili prawns, along with salad and finished off with ice cream. A vat of
mulled wine and plenty of beer meant the party got going with a swing and the dancing started early and went late. Something about the silly hats seemed to bring out a whole different side of people!
The sun set slowly over the mountains and the light changed from brilliant sunlight to a beautiful Antarctic twilight. Finally the last dancers straggled off the rear deck after 11.00 p.m., threw their hats and wigs back into the fancy dress box and headed for bed.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Antarctica - Day 5 - Port Lockroy; Lemaire Channel; Pléneau I.
Tuesday, 21 December 2010
Position at 2230 hours: Lat. 64 ̊57’S, Long. 63° 42’W Speed: 9.8 knots Course: 44 ̊ Barometer: 979.9 hPa falling WIND: Calm Air temperature: 2°C Sea temperature: 0°C
There is only one short link in the food chain between a diatom and a one-hundred-ton blue whale – between one cell and the largest of all animals – and that link is the Antarctic krill. —David G. Campbell, The Crystal Desert (1992)
A different visit for us today - a shop! Yes, Port Lockroy is an old British Base that today serves as a little research station, a museum, a souvenir shop and the southern most post office in the world. I posted heaps of postcards to friends and family but apparently they won't arrive for at least three months.
We went ashore at another penguin colony where the massive skeleton of a blue whale lies mingled with the snow and nests of Gentoos.
We slipped silently along a narrow Lemaire channel filled with mist and an eerie light as the sun tried its best to break through. The kayakers appeared in the distance and it looked like such a wonderful experience for them to have had, alone and islolated in those tiny craft.
A zodiac cruise through icebergs of every shape and colour in the snow was capped off by an incredible sunset on a nameless snow covered mountain.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Antarctica - Day 4 - Mist, Snow, Ice and Paradise
Position: Lat. 64° 53’S, Long. 62° 52’W Speed: 10.8 knots Course: 250° Barometer: 986.6 hPa steady
Wind: 5 knots NE Air temperature: 0° C Sea temperature: 0° Celsius
Penguins are beautiful, interesting and funny. They are a pleasure to watch even though they do smell and their voices are not melodious. —George Gaylord Simpson, Penguins Past and Present
A lecture from Keith seemed to conjure two humpback whales close to the ship and then we heard Captain Yury call “Orrrrcas”. Over the next few minutes we saw pairs and small groups of orcas speeding their way in the opposite direction, perhaps explaining why there were so many penguins perched on their temporary drifting homes.
“Four hours until Paradise,” someone called. We filled the time cruising to the much anticipated Paradise Harbour, marvelling at the bergs through snow flurries that at first drifted and then were driven on icy winds.
No words or pictures can truly explain what happened next. We cruised in our Zodiacs through a mystical world. Slipping through newly formed slushy ice, bumping over brash ice, gliding around and through exquisite shapes and colours, drifting close to hanging glaciers, marvelling at enormous fissures of impossible blues, and then the sun broke through and recreated the scene all over again, painting it with magical light.
We had two hours of bliss before returning to a warm ship and an equally stunning cruise along the Neumayer Channel. In amongst all this we managed to wrap gifts, decorate Christmas trees, listen to an excited Eva talk to a friend over the radio at Port Lockroy and eat delicious meals.
Wind: 5 knots NE Air temperature: 0° C Sea temperature: 0° Celsius
Penguins are beautiful, interesting and funny. They are a pleasure to watch even though they do smell and their voices are not melodious. —George Gaylord Simpson, Penguins Past and Present
I woke to the words “Iceberg ahead!”. How excited we were as we quickly dressed and began our morning’s occupation. Looming from the mist grotesque shapes in ice, enriched with blues and mauves, delicate clear sculptures of birds and seahorses drifted by amongst larger sculptures, and then it was the turn of the whales.
A lecture from Keith seemed to conjure two humpback whales close to the ship and then we heard Captain Yury call “Orrrrcas”. Over the next few minutes we saw pairs and small groups of orcas speeding their way in the opposite direction, perhaps explaining why there were so many penguins perched on their temporary drifting homes.
“Four hours until Paradise,” someone called. We filled the time cruising to the much anticipated Paradise Harbour, marvelling at the bergs through snow flurries that at first drifted and then were driven on icy winds.
For some reason this seemed the ideal time for morning tea outside on the bow. Everyone donned their cold-weather gear and enjoyed rich, hot chocolate and warm, freshly baked Chelsea bun in the snow.
Our Zodiacs approached the rocks and bright rusty red buildings of the abandoned Argentinean base, as if on cue the mist lifted, it stopped snowing and we enjoyed the next few hours in increasing sunshine.
The climb up the steep hill behind the base was supposedly to take in the magnificent view of our little ship floating on a mirror littered with ice, but we all know the real reason was so that we could slide all the way to the bottom again. After the first few bottoms had moved the snow out of the way there was so much fun and laughter for the rest of us as we accelerated downhill.
The climb up the steep hill behind the base was supposedly to take in the magnificent view of our little ship floating on a mirror littered with ice, but we all know the real reason was so that we could slide all the way to the bottom again. After the first few bottoms had moved the snow out of the way there was so much fun and laughter for the rest of us as we accelerated downhill.
No words or pictures can truly explain what happened next. We cruised in our Zodiacs through a mystical world. Slipping through newly formed slushy ice, bumping over brash ice, gliding around and through exquisite shapes and colours, drifting close to hanging glaciers, marvelling at enormous fissures of impossible blues, and then the sun broke through and recreated the scene all over again, painting it with magical light.
We had two hours of bliss before returning to a warm ship and an equally stunning cruise along the Neumayer Channel. In amongst all this we managed to wrap gifts, decorate Christmas trees, listen to an excited Eva talk to a friend over the radio at Port Lockroy and eat delicious meals.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Antarctica - Day 3 - Land Ahoy
Position; Lat. 62° 47’S, Long. 59° 44’W Course: 202° Speed: 9.8 knots Barometer: 982.6 and rising
Wind: 20 knots from W Air temperature: 2° C Sea temperature: 0°C
The Antarctic Convergence is perhaps the longest and most important biological barrier on earth, as formidable as any mountain range or desert. It is an obstacle to the dispersion of birds, fish, and, most important, plankton. —David G. Campbell, The Crystal Desert (1992)
We awoke after a good night’s sleep to relatively calm seas and dense sea mist. We had crossed the Antarctic Convergence during the evening and were now cruising through Antarctic waters (or ‘Drake Lake’ as it was referred to by Judd).
Mid-morning we headed down to the lecture theatre for the environmental and Zodiac briefings. You could sense the excitement building amongst all on board as our dreams of experiencing Antarctica were soon to become a reality.
Judd’s announcement that we were to gear up to go ashore saw us putting on the layers - all that thermal underwear and thick fleece jumpers and rainproof jackets and over-pants that seemed so ridiculous to pack back in Brisbane suddenly seemed inadequate.
How long would it take you to dress?
1. Thermal underwear - top and bottom
2. 'wicking' tee shirt
3. light fleece jumper or vest
4. thick fleece jacket
5. fleece pants
6. waterproof over-pants
7. Gumboots
8. weather proof jacket
9. beanie and scarf and gloves
10. don't forget the sunglasses! waterproof bag and camera!
How long would it take you to learn to walk in all that gear - simple - adopt the penguin waddle!
Climbing down the gangway from ship to Zodiac was accomplished with complete safety and absolutely no elegance. Racing away from the ship, skimming towards the island. losing sight of the ship in the mist and the scent of penguins in the air... we ARE really here!
Aitcho Island was mist, silence, snow crunching under gumboots and a hive of activity. Gentoo penguins sitting on or re-building stone nests, others waddling back and forth along the penguin highways to the ocean. Strolling in unfamiliar landscape, hearing unfamiliar sounds and trying to soak it all up and treasure it was how we spent the next hour or two. We thought we were pretty clever seeing three species of penguin on the first day chinstrap, gentoo and adelie
Layers of warm, wet-weather gear were peeled off, and we were back in the dining rooms for a delicious curry. After dinner it was straight back up to the bridge still looking for THAT iceberg! What a way to spend an evening, new companions, magical seascape, calm seas.
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Gentoo |
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Chinstrap |
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adelie |
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Antarctica - Day 2 - Drake Passage
Position at 2030 hours: Lat. 58° 32.6’S, Long. 63° 23.4’W Speed: 12.2 knots
Wind: 16 knots W Air temperature: 5° C Sea temperature: 3° CRoll on, thou deep and dark blue Ocean – roll! Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain;
Man marks the earth with ruin – his control Stops with the shore. —Lord Byron
Woke early to the gentle rolling of the ship and the quiet hum of the engines. It was only 5.30 a.m. and already light. Max, the only other hardy passenger at this early hour, was standing legs akimbo, and I joined him slowly to test my sea legs across pitching deck. We stood wedged against the rail to marvel at the vast ocean surrounding the ship. There was no sign of the land we had left the previous night, and we could feel the gentle roll of the Polar Pioneer as she made her way through the heaving, grey ocean. A watery sun glowed faintly through the thin cloud, and I imagined what it must feel like to be a lone sailor on this vast ocean.
We watched black-browed albatrosses and giant petrels soar over the waves, Cape petrels swoop under the bow of the ship and tiny Antarctic prions appear and disappear between the swells. Then a wandering albatross with a lot of white on its wings, the master of soaring, came into view. We felt very satisfied with our early morning sightings and returned to the sleeping passengers below.
The day continued with time on the bridge bird-watching, and chatting between passengers and crew for some. Others, such as myself, spent the day horizontal in our cabins, trying to fight off sea sickness in the large rolling swell that was attacking us from our stern quarter. I managed to take myself to Captain’s drinks but was soon back to the couch. Max coping so well that he occasionally supplied me with drinks and meals, climbing up and down stairs with hands full of cups and plates when I couldn't even stand.
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| Max on the Bridge - it became his favourite place - first there in the morning and not quite last to leave at night. |
Friday, December 17, 2010
Antarctica - Day 1 - Sailing from Ushuaia
No words will describe it, no pictures will let you see it... you have to experience Antarctia. It was truly wonderful.
Passengers on the ship were asked to choose one day of our voyage and write about if for the Ship's Log. I have included exerpts from the log, so the text below in italics is from shipmates who shared their thoughts and experiences with us all, or the quote of the day which greeted us each morning over the pa system in our cabins.
The land was gone, all but a little streak, away off on the edge of the water, and down under us was just ocean, ocean, ocean – millions of miles of it, heaving and pitching and squirming, and white sprays blowing from the wave-tops ... and we had the sky and the ocean to ourselves, and the roomiest place I ever did see.
—Mark Twain, Tom Sawyer Abroad
Position: Lat. 54 ̊ 53.5’S, Long. 67 ̊ 42.9’W
Speed: 12.2 knots Course: 96 ̊ Barometer: 995.9 hPa steady
Wind: 6 knots W Air temperature: 9 ̊C Sea temperature: 7.3 ̊C
Friday, 17 December
Polar Pioneer must have docked in the early hours of the morning, as when I walk down to the docks first thing there she is at the end, with her star logo on the funnel. It’s a chilly morning in Ushuaia, with a bit of sleet blowing around and a day to spend before boarding.
Through passport control and the dock seems endless as I head right to the end where I can see a big pile of bags and people standing around the gangway of Polar Pioneer. A very warm welcome from Judd and Maggie, our expedition leader and assistant leader, and I can feel all the last minute frazzle already fading away.
Up the gangway and into the Captains Suite. We can't believe our luck We have the upgrade, and after a little happy dance a knock at the door reveals terry the hotel manager with a bottle of champagne for us. Wooo Hoo!
We meet up with the other passengers and the Aurora staff up on the bridge, with a sweeping view on three sides it will be a great vantage point when it is too cold outside. Judd makes us welcome and lets us know that he will be leading the expedition rather than Don, who has a medical problem. We meet all the staff and hear some basics about how the boat will operate and what is expected of us. The lifeboat drill, with the bulky life vests, is a cause for some nervous laughter and the first of many photos.
We hear the engines change and an announcement that we are now pulling out from the dock. On our way at last. We race up to the flybridge and say goodbye to the mountains around Ushuaia and hello to the Southern Ocean.
Our first dinner then up to the bridge as the long twilight sets in, to watch our exit from the Beagle Channel. By the time we round the last headland most passengers are trying to sleep as the ship starts to roll and a few tummies start to roll too.
Passengers on the ship were asked to choose one day of our voyage and write about if for the Ship's Log. I have included exerpts from the log, so the text below in italics is from shipmates who shared their thoughts and experiences with us all, or the quote of the day which greeted us each morning over the pa system in our cabins.
The land was gone, all but a little streak, away off on the edge of the water, and down under us was just ocean, ocean, ocean – millions of miles of it, heaving and pitching and squirming, and white sprays blowing from the wave-tops ... and we had the sky and the ocean to ourselves, and the roomiest place I ever did see.
—Mark Twain, Tom Sawyer Abroad
Position: Lat. 54 ̊ 53.5’S, Long. 67 ̊ 42.9’W
Speed: 12.2 knots Course: 96 ̊ Barometer: 995.9 hPa steady
Wind: 6 knots W Air temperature: 9 ̊C Sea temperature: 7.3 ̊C
Friday, 17 December
Polar Pioneer must have docked in the early hours of the morning, as when I walk down to the docks first thing there she is at the end, with her star logo on the funnel. It’s a chilly morning in Ushuaia, with a bit of sleet blowing around and a day to spend before boarding.
Through passport control and the dock seems endless as I head right to the end where I can see a big pile of bags and people standing around the gangway of Polar Pioneer. A very warm welcome from Judd and Maggie, our expedition leader and assistant leader, and I can feel all the last minute frazzle already fading away.
Up the gangway and into the Captains Suite. We can't believe our luck We have the upgrade, and after a little happy dance a knock at the door reveals terry the hotel manager with a bottle of champagne for us. Wooo Hoo!
We meet up with the other passengers and the Aurora staff up on the bridge, with a sweeping view on three sides it will be a great vantage point when it is too cold outside. Judd makes us welcome and lets us know that he will be leading the expedition rather than Don, who has a medical problem. We meet all the staff and hear some basics about how the boat will operate and what is expected of us. The lifeboat drill, with the bulky life vests, is a cause for some nervous laughter and the first of many photos.
We hear the engines change and an announcement that we are now pulling out from the dock. On our way at last. We race up to the flybridge and say goodbye to the mountains around Ushuaia and hello to the Southern Ocean.
Our first dinner then up to the bridge as the long twilight sets in, to watch our exit from the Beagle Channel. By the time we round the last headland most passengers are trying to sleep as the ship starts to roll and a few tummies start to roll too.
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| Photo by Hannah |
Feliz Navidad
Until the 27th December when we will be back in Ushuaia,
we wish you a
Merry Christmas
from the bottom of our hearts,
and the world. Hello Ushuaia
After leaving the lodge we arrived in Punta Arenas and had a wonderful dinner with new friends from Santiago who had shared the experience at Explora with us. Wonderful meal and wine and lots of laughs before an early rise and the bus trip!
We met 2 Australians on the bus, young back packers who downloaded lots of my photos onto a memory stick for me as we drove along through Tierra del Fuego... surreal. I gave them a bag of licorice that I had bought in Australia in return, and you would have thought it was Christmas from the looks on their faces. (Hang On - It Is Christmas!)
THE BUS TRIP!!!! Our 37th Wedding Anniversay
What can I tell you? The scenery is incredible, vast plains thousand of kilometres of flat land with a backdrop of the most amazing variety of blues and unusual clouds. Sheep, cattle, strange birds and fences and gates and houses and rough, narrow roads, the bus constantly slowing down for pot holes or passing traffic. Smiling people and a 3 year old girl with a toy that played 3 blind mice over and over and over and over again.
Border control, passports, papers, more smiles and nods and then, OK unpack the bus... yes everything... and bring it inside to the scanner!
The Atlantic Ocean on our right, a small town to change busses and ... there are two to may people for the next part of our trip, would you like to get off and wait for the next bus!??? (No we didn´t, but a young pair of back packer´s did volunteer, but not until after the next bus had arrived and they made sure there were seats on it, experienced travellers for sure!!)
13hours later we arrived in Ushuaia, the southern most city in the world. One of the most scenic drives you can imagine through scnow-capped mountains and lake-filled valleys before arriving over the crest with a view of the town at the edge of the Beagle Channel and ... next stop Antactica.
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| Christmas window Ushuaia |
So lunch for our anniversary was chocolate from the Chilean border and a a hot dog from the Argentinian border 5 km away (the land in between is in dispute - no-mans land) and a coffee from a tiny town called Tolhuin along the way. Dinner was a packet of chips and a lemonade from the mini bar as we arrived here so late.
Today (16th) we have had a lovely walk and lunch in town, as >I wandered through the many and varied tourist shops amd peered in the window of delicatesans, bakeries and chocolate shops, the snow was falling. It is very cold and we have decided to eat in the restaurant of the hotel tonight.
In the morning we will be able to watch our little ship from our bedroom window as it sails up the Beagle Channel. It is to arrive at 7.00am. I am so excited.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Farewell Explora Salto Chico
The mountains have dominated our 4 days here, but the people we have met and the new experiences have made it such a happy time for us. Chilean people are warm and welcoming and friendly, the staff here are courteous and professional as you would expect, but I am sure they keep their jobs because of their rapport with people and their genuine love for what they do.
We spent our last morning wandering the fields and hillsides around horse stables about 5km from the lodge. We had a guide all to ourselves who is an expert bird watcher and our driver loves birds too, so we spotted many along the way. The walk was so pleasant, we saw many birds that are so unusual to us and things like plovers and ibis and sparrows that are similar in all but the colours.
Lunch and then a walk in the cold winds along the boardwalks that surround the lodge and give views of the waterfall, lake and of course these beatiful mountains.
Sad to say goodbye, but excited to think of what lies ahead.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
The Three Towers
A relaxing morning spent around the lodge today as Max seems to have a touch of sunstroke and needs lots of rest, he is sleeping a lot, almost 22 hours in the last 30. Hopefully he will feel better tomorrow - it is our last night here and tomorrow e plan a birdwatching excursion before we leave after lunch.
We (I) have had a fabulous day. Went to a Quincho ( a bbq unlike any other I have been to) and than a 6 km walk to a vantage point to look at the Towers del Paine. We have been looking at images of these towers for over 12 months and Max was too unwell to walk it. They are awe inspiring and it was such a lovely walk across rolling hills in the sunshine.
I will write more about today later on, off to look after my man.
We (I) have had a fabulous day. Went to a Quincho ( a bbq unlike any other I have been to) and than a 6 km walk to a vantage point to look at the Towers del Paine. We have been looking at images of these towers for over 12 months and Max was too unwell to walk it. They are awe inspiring and it was such a lovely walk across rolling hills in the sunshine.
I will write more about today later on, off to look after my man.
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| Caroline and me in front of the towers |
Monday, December 13, 2010
Seeing the Mountains
Last night during dinner the winds blew and finaly we saw an entire mountain range with sunlight revealing colours you could not have guessed were there. Beautiful ... the camera was in our room, so it will remain a painting in my memory.
A LLL-oo-nn-ggg soak in the bath and a good massage of the legs with linament and I was fine this morning to climb down to the jetty and back. I tried to stay in bed, but I am afraid I will miss something spectacular on the mountain as the sun rises, and I can sleep back in Brisbane.
A LLL-oo-nn-ggg soak in the bath and a good massage of the legs with linament and I was fine this morning to climb down to the jetty and back. I tried to stay in bed, but I am afraid I will miss something spectacular on the mountain as the sun rises, and I can sleep back in Brisbane.
Cafe del Paine and Pisco Sour
We caught the boat across a lake the colour of bright blue milk, hiked 18km return to Frenchmans Camp in a valley between the horns of Torres and the massif, it was hot, brilliant sunshine, blasted by 80-100km winds at times and arrived exhausted at the most spectacular spot for lunch at the base of a glacier. We were served hot soup, we had carried our sandwiches, and then a coffee with a delcious slice. The coffee was offered with a healthy dash of Baileys Irish Cream - Yum! I have christened the coffee ¨Cafe del Paine¨ (this is pronounced pine -ay) and it will always remind me of this brilliant place. It was fantastic to be so close to the mountains, we heard several avalanches, like rolling thuder from thousands of metres above us and tiny birds. We walked across swing bridges over rushing streams and drank glacier water. We walked through beech forests and all the time overwhelmed with the power of the mountains surrounding us.
I can´t believe we have signed up for a 6 km walk tomorrow, maybe it has something to do with my newest favourite drink that we all had to toast our success today - a Pisco Sour.
Another dream of a day, tiring but wonderful.
I can´t believe we have signed up for a 6 km walk tomorrow, maybe it has something to do with my newest favourite drink that we all had to toast our success today - a Pisco Sour.
Another dream of a day, tiring but wonderful.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Snowbow
A reward for rising at 5.30am (not that unusual at home but the only other person up at that hour is the night security guard - about 7.00am is considered early here) was an enormous rainbow arching the height of the main valley between the Grand Massif and the horns of Torres del Paine ... so that means at least 2000m from top to bottom. There is no rain, but the massive mountain is covered with snow which is whipped from the face by the powerful winds, and as the sun hit this cloud of snow it formed a rainbow - the snowbow! :) I can´t wait to link a photo here to show you all.
How Windy Does It Have To Be To Blow Your Beanie Off?
About 100kph - coming straight off the Patagonian Icefields.
Woke to a spectacular morning and sat on the jetty and photographed the early morning sun moving across the mountains. We chose to do two 'easy' walks today to ease into our first full day and our first was to Nordensfeld Lake past a beautiful waterfall, the hardiest of mountain plants in flower and ancient, tortured, twisted Northofagus (a close relevative of those in Tasmania and elsewhere) to arrive at a vantage point that gives the ´best´view of Torres del Paine. We were lucky to have fabulous blue skies and crystal clear views, the first in over 10 days apparently! Lucky Us! There are no words to describe how you feel when you are confronted with these beautiful mountains, so I won't try. I am just so glad to have had the privelge of being here and experiencing them, even at a distance.
Our second walk was through totally different landscape, green grass and lakes and huge uplifted hills of sedimentary rock, all the while surrounded by purple and yellow and white wildflowers and the amazing teal green that is the water of the lakes.
Saw condors land right outside our bedroom window today, a fox and a guanaco herd (or is that a flock - kind of like llamas or alpacas) grebes, and tiny little birds whose name in Spanish means backpacks because of the orange triangle on their back.
The wind is incredible, pushing you along ... or over, whipping water off the lakes in clouds that look like patches of fog being whisked along and clearing a cloudy sky in seconds. Just like Melbourne, in Patagonia if you don´t like the weather, just wait 5 minutes.
Our day has been one long hoped for but never truly imagined.
Woke to a spectacular morning and sat on the jetty and photographed the early morning sun moving across the mountains. We chose to do two 'easy' walks today to ease into our first full day and our first was to Nordensfeld Lake past a beautiful waterfall, the hardiest of mountain plants in flower and ancient, tortured, twisted Northofagus (a close relevative of those in Tasmania and elsewhere) to arrive at a vantage point that gives the ´best´view of Torres del Paine. We were lucky to have fabulous blue skies and crystal clear views, the first in over 10 days apparently! Lucky Us! There are no words to describe how you feel when you are confronted with these beautiful mountains, so I won't try. I am just so glad to have had the privelge of being here and experiencing them, even at a distance.
Our second walk was through totally different landscape, green grass and lakes and huge uplifted hills of sedimentary rock, all the while surrounded by purple and yellow and white wildflowers and the amazing teal green that is the water of the lakes.
Saw condors land right outside our bedroom window today, a fox and a guanaco herd (or is that a flock - kind of like llamas or alpacas) grebes, and tiny little birds whose name in Spanish means backpacks because of the orange triangle on their back.
The wind is incredible, pushing you along ... or over, whipping water off the lakes in clouds that look like patches of fog being whisked along and clearing a cloudy sky in seconds. Just like Melbourne, in Patagonia if you don´t like the weather, just wait 5 minutes.
Our day has been one long hoped for but never truly imagined.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Dreams
We woke in Dreams hotel Punta Arenas and went to sleep living inside the dream in Torres del Paine National Park, that we have had for so long.
We were early and wandered the waterfront, enjoying a lazy swell and the sea birds and sunshine on the Magellenic Strait before breakfast (where the chef couldn`t make Max`s omelette because he couldn`t find the eggs) before being seated in a van with two other couples and heading across the Patagonia pampas, hills of twisted conifers and beech? , farms filled with sheep and cows and the occasional emu like birds whose name I can`t remember before arriving at a `resort` in the middle of nowhere for a snack. The resort was set in the most beautiful landscaped gardens and a light meal was served before we were on our way again.
We glimpsed mountains in the distance, wound our way past impossibly blue/green lakes and arrived in a travel brochure. Everything we had read and seen is true, and the mountains overwhelm you with their presence. The sky was blue, clouds blew in and across, I wanted to pinch myself to believe I was here.
We were shown to our room, a magical view of the little river (Salto Chico) with two tumbling waterfalls just 20 metres or so away, (we left our window open through the night to listen to the water) and then we went for a walk. 3km up hill and down again through vegetation reminiscent of Tasmania and all the time eyes drawn to the magnificence of the mountains.
Superb meal and wine, fantastic accomodation, friendly staff, surreal scenery. Is this me? Am I here?
We were early and wandered the waterfront, enjoying a lazy swell and the sea birds and sunshine on the Magellenic Strait before breakfast (where the chef couldn`t make Max`s omelette because he couldn`t find the eggs) before being seated in a van with two other couples and heading across the Patagonia pampas, hills of twisted conifers and beech? , farms filled with sheep and cows and the occasional emu like birds whose name I can`t remember before arriving at a `resort` in the middle of nowhere for a snack. The resort was set in the most beautiful landscaped gardens and a light meal was served before we were on our way again.
We glimpsed mountains in the distance, wound our way past impossibly blue/green lakes and arrived in a travel brochure. Everything we had read and seen is true, and the mountains overwhelm you with their presence. The sky was blue, clouds blew in and across, I wanted to pinch myself to believe I was here.
We were shown to our room, a magical view of the little river (Salto Chico) with two tumbling waterfalls just 20 metres or so away, (we left our window open through the night to listen to the water) and then we went for a walk. 3km up hill and down again through vegetation reminiscent of Tasmania and all the time eyes drawn to the magnificence of the mountains.
Superb meal and wine, fantastic accomodation, friendly staff, surreal scenery. Is this me? Am I here?
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| Our room is the window top left |
Friday, December 10, 2010
Magic Magellenos Lamb
The flight was nothing short of spectacular. I hope the photos taken from the plane window show even a hint of what flying over this rugged mountain range was like ... cliffs and gullies thousands of feet deep, forests and bare rock of every hue all inscribed with winding rivers of milky green or cobalt blue. I am so sorry I cannot load photos. If i can buy myself a card reader I think I might be able to... we´ll see.
Everything has gone so well so far, there was a young woman and a chaufer waiting at the airport with a card with our name on it. We received lots of smiles and charming English as she described her town and what we could see and do while we are here and we visited the restuarant she recommended, famous for it´s lamb dish ´Magellenos Lamb´. (click here for an image I found on the web) We wandered the streets, before a nap and then out to dinner , Max had the local specialty with an entree of King Crab and I had salmon ~ deliciouso ~ more bueno. The lamb is amazing, split down the middle and butterflied, the whole lamb is pegged out crucifix style in a glass oven and slow roasted beside a fire in the centre. Yep... never took my camera to the restaurant! The wine is absolutely beautiful - a local Cab Sav. Servings are huge, we´ll know for next time!
Punta Arenas is a shabby, weather worn town. Empty shops in the main street stand testament to the 27acres of duty free shopping on the outskirts of town aimed at the cruise ship tourist trade.
Our hotel still smells brand new and is beautifully appointed. The Chilean people we have met have all been so firiendly and helpful, thanks goodness, we feel so ´dumb´not being able to communicate.
A walk along the waterfront in an icy wind as the suns was setting (at 9.30pm) refreshed and re-energised the mind, body and spirit and took care of the overfed tummies... well almost.
Everything has gone so well so far, there was a young woman and a chaufer waiting at the airport with a card with our name on it. We received lots of smiles and charming English as she described her town and what we could see and do while we are here and we visited the restuarant she recommended, famous for it´s lamb dish ´Magellenos Lamb´. (click here for an image I found on the web) We wandered the streets, before a nap and then out to dinner , Max had the local specialty with an entree of King Crab and I had salmon ~ deliciouso ~ more bueno. The lamb is amazing, split down the middle and butterflied, the whole lamb is pegged out crucifix style in a glass oven and slow roasted beside a fire in the centre. Yep... never took my camera to the restaurant! The wine is absolutely beautiful - a local Cab Sav. Servings are huge, we´ll know for next time!
Punta Arenas is a shabby, weather worn town. Empty shops in the main street stand testament to the 27acres of duty free shopping on the outskirts of town aimed at the cruise ship tourist trade.
Our hotel still smells brand new and is beautifully appointed. The Chilean people we have met have all been so firiendly and helpful, thanks goodness, we feel so ´dumb´not being able to communicate.
A walk along the waterfront in an icy wind as the suns was setting (at 9.30pm) refreshed and re-energised the mind, body and spirit and took care of the overfed tummies... well almost.
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Santiago Chile
Flying over the vast Pacific Ocean is incredible. I watched the sunset brilliant pink over the top of an enormous cloud bank and watched the sunrise delicate orange over a deep blue ocean spotted with ice. At first I thought it must be waves breaking, but when they didn´t disappear I realised I was seeing ice... then I saw my first sight of land as we flew up the coast of South America from South to North. I was excited to see the Andes mountains in the distance with peaks covered in snow, and then we saw the reason for the ice, a massive glacier making its way from the mountains down a valley, still a long way from the sea, but depositing ice into a lake and river.
Landing in Santiago was beautiful with the jagged snow topped mountains as a backdrop for smaller bare mountains, green, geometric patterned farmland filling the vallleys and then a city that was not as vast as I expected.
Clearing customs and immigration was easy but they are VERY fussy about the state of the money you hand over. We had to pay $61US tax when we landed. Max handed them a note with a tiny nick in the corner... rejected, I handed them a note with an even tiner split at the top where it had been folded... rejected. We had to sort through the notes we had received from the travel exchange until w e found perfect ones before we could proceed.
Our hotel is clean and quiet and just acros the road from the airport - couldn`t be easier for an overnight stop. We were delighted to discover a bottle of champagne, strawberries and chocloate in our room, along with a note from Lex our travel agent, wishing Max a Happy Birthday! We enjoyed the champers, a shower and by then we were shattered and in bed by 7.00pm local time.
I love trying newfoods when we travel but breakfast today was a beautiful spread just like we would see in any good hotel at home... except for the amazing sweet biscuits, cakes and pastries that were temptingly displayed beside the coffee. I am afraid they are my weakness, but even I could not try them at 6am in the morning! :) I did try the ´empanyardo´ paste ~ I think it is like quince paste - it was lovely. The fruit here is better than I have had anywhere, truly fresh and so sweet!
We are off to catch our next flight to Punta Arenas - I hope we fly over the land - the mountains are an incredible sight.
Landing in Santiago was beautiful with the jagged snow topped mountains as a backdrop for smaller bare mountains, green, geometric patterned farmland filling the vallleys and then a city that was not as vast as I expected.
Clearing customs and immigration was easy but they are VERY fussy about the state of the money you hand over. We had to pay $61US tax when we landed. Max handed them a note with a tiny nick in the corner... rejected, I handed them a note with an even tiner split at the top where it had been folded... rejected. We had to sort through the notes we had received from the travel exchange until w e found perfect ones before we could proceed.
Our hotel is clean and quiet and just acros the road from the airport - couldn`t be easier for an overnight stop. We were delighted to discover a bottle of champagne, strawberries and chocloate in our room, along with a note from Lex our travel agent, wishing Max a Happy Birthday! We enjoyed the champers, a shower and by then we were shattered and in bed by 7.00pm local time.
I love trying newfoods when we travel but breakfast today was a beautiful spread just like we would see in any good hotel at home... except for the amazing sweet biscuits, cakes and pastries that were temptingly displayed beside the coffee. I am afraid they are my weakness, but even I could not try them at 6am in the morning! :) I did try the ´empanyardo´ paste ~ I think it is like quince paste - it was lovely. The fruit here is better than I have had anywhere, truly fresh and so sweet!
We are off to catch our next flight to Punta Arenas - I hope we fly over the land - the mountains are an incredible sight.
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
An open mind and a degree of flexibility
When we received out tickets and itinerary for our trip, the closing words from our travel agent were " ... and when travelling in South America I recommend that you pack two things to make your trip more enjoyable, an open mind and a degree of flexibility."
Guess that extends to where any South American airline ventures, as we have arrived at Auckland airport to discover that our LAN flight to Chile has been delayed by 4h 30m.
Max will have read his book before we leave!
Guess that extends to where any South American airline ventures, as we have arrived at Auckland airport to discover that our LAN flight to Chile has been delayed by 4h 30m.
Max will have read his book before we leave!
On Our Way
Max's Mum and Dad were up at 5.00am (God Bless them) to see us as we left the car at their place and caught a Taxi .. and here we are at Brisbane International Airport, we have our colourful Chilean Peso and after Max thought he'd lost his phone and found it again, we are excitedly waiting for take-off. Yes Bec... We are about 1 hour early!!
Thursday, December 2, 2010
What an Upgrade!
Our 'holiday of a lifetime' begins next Wednesday 8th - only 6 more sleeps.
We travel from Brisbane to Santiago, Chile, Punta Arenas and on to Explora Lodge in Patagonia. We are so excited at the prospect of being able to walk through the foothills of the Andes in Torres del Paine National Park after so many years looking at pictures in a magazines or on television documentaries.
We will spend our 37th wedding anniversary on a 12hour bus ride to Ushuaia and then onto our ship, the Polar Pioneer, for an 11 day cruise of the Antarctic Peninsular. Somehow we have been assigned the Captain’s Suite and WOW we are excited !!! (We had booked a mini suite) - our cabin is immediately below the bridge and our windows look ahead and out the Port side! Our cruise leaves Ushuaia 17th December. If you would like to see our ship or follow our progress during our cruise, Click here to visit their website.
We will fly to Iguazu Falls for 4 days and then to Cuzco in Peru for 5 or 6 days in the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Machu Picchu before flying home
I can't wait to get the camera out!
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